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Hello all, I'm the guy from this thread, who was trying to fix their RailKing Triplex that was stuck in neutral. After a four-month wait time from TrainWorld, I just got the Remote Commander in today. However, the power input is some type of weird inverse-jack thing, which according to the manual requires input from a MTH Transformer or Power Supply. Considering that this was not mentioned anywhere in the product description on either MTH or TainWorld's site (in fact it directly states it "can accept any power input (AC or DC) up to 20 volts and 8 amps"), and that the only two transformers I have are a Lionel ZW and CW-80, this renders the product completely unusable to me.

My question then becomes: is there any way to get around this without buying a whole new transformer? Some sort of adapter, licensed or otherwise? Or could I solder a wire to the jack? I want to make sure that any loop-around I use won't immediately fry the commander. If there's no safe work around, I'll probably return the commander to TrainWorld and bite the bullet for the $20 factory-reset fee my local hobby shop is enforcing (which is just ridiculous).

Thanks in advance for your input (hehe)! The clock to get my Triplex running continues, apparently. I could also add pictures if that helps.

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It's a barrel jack connection and yes, you can purchase an adaptor that will let you connect your transformer wires to the adaptor and then the adaptor plugs into the device.

Search for "5.5/2.1 barrel jack connectors" on A-zon or the bay and you should find them easily. The most common ones are green and black and have screws on top for attaching your wires into slots. I'm not sure whether you need the male or female ones, so get the set that comes with both ends. They're about $7.50 for ten of them. 

..., I just got the Remote Commander in today. However, the power input is some type of weird inverse-jack thing, which according to the manual requires input from a MTH Transformer or Power Supply.

The DCS Remote Commander can be powered in so-called "Passive Mode" where you don't use that weird inverse-jack thing.

There have been dozens of OGR threads on this but darned if I could find one with a clear diagram/picture.  Here's a not so clear diagram from a post I made on Passive Mode connection. 

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In words.  Since you already have power to your track (obviously), you just connect the track's center rail (e.g., Red) to the Red Banana Jack on the DCS-RC...and connect the track's outer rail (e.g., Black) to the Black Banana Jack on the DCS-RC.

Apply power to track.  Confirm little Green LED on DCS-RC turns on.

Confirm pressing button on the DCS-RC remote handheld causes Green LED to blink (showing it is listening/hears remote).

Then, pray (or do whatever provides inspiration in your life) that your PS3 engine is one that is new enough to support factory-reset via the DCS-RC remote! 

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Well, you're right on the "cusp" of the changeover, 2014 is when the chain files were updated to allow the DCS-RC to factory reset a PS/3 locomotive.

Give it a try, here's the reset sequence.  Obviously, if the engine doesn't recognize the reset, you likely won't get the two honk response, and it will not be recognized.

Turn off power if on
Wait 15 seconds
Turn on power:  the engine should be dark and quiet
Press no other buttons
Press SND
Press DIR
Press "-"  (on the gray rocker in the center of the remote.  Also is the speed down button.)
The engine will give a two honk response and will be sitting on the track running
The engine has now been factory reset, and is ready to run with your DCS Remote Commander system.

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