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I haven't had any luck on the web trying to find out how the 2 step reverse unit works on this engine. Does anyone have a helpful link or can explain. Also, the engine runs smooth and dandy in reverse but wobbles side to side in forward. I'm pretty sure the tender could use more weight and I suspect the driver tires may need replaced. They are mounted on the driver wheels, but seem lose in comparison to how my O-gauge tires fit. I haven't removed the drivers and they look to be quartered, so that shouldn't be an issue. I can try adding a brass spacer to the front side of the armature to see if that helps. The motor does not overheat. The engine just seem to fight itself in forward.

Rich 

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The 2 step E Unit is not easy to repair.  Most often if you cannot see a detached wire to solder you need to get a replacement.  On Doug Peck's website there is some repair information.  Here is a link http://www.portlines.com/portlinesclinic23.htm

The tender if original does not need extra weight.  The traction tires should not be loose so replace them or glue them as a first try.  The wobble could have something to do with the linkage.  I can't imagine having it in only one direction. 

Thanks for the quick response Bill. Dang if I didn't notice Doug's 2 step blurb on the bottom of the service report (I usually try his clinic section first), so thanks so much for the link!

Would you know if the rod on the 2 step unit is to move freely? With mine I need to push up and pull down to move it. Doug's report mentioned "works by gravity" so I may need to lubricate?

I thought the same thing regarding the linkage and wobble only happening in forward. I'll tear everything down tonight and try replacing the tires with tighter fitting ones from my huge assortment of O-gauge spares. Looks like they used narrow width tires which might present a challenge.

Rich 

Be very careful unsoldering the wires, I ruined one by using too much heat.  They aren't that bad otherwise.  Once you get the wires off and separate it from the engine, you should be able to remove the plastic frame that houses the fingers and pendulum or drum for lack of a better word.  You can remove the plunger at this time. Then you can separate the two haves of the plastic frame with finger pressure to release the fingers and pendulum drum doodad.  Clean it all up and put it back together.  I melted the plastic frame on one side where the fingers fit so now the fingers no fit right.  Sooo be careful, but it can be done with a little patience and care.

It was the tires. They were probably slipping and causing the engine to shimmy going forward. I have a box of at least 200 packs of spare O-gauge tires and all were too wide so I super glued the originals to the drivers. I tore down the motor and cleaned everything up, and added a spacer at the front of the armature. Doing this keeps the armature centered within the outer field while going forward. I did notice an improvement with speed equalization comparing forward speed vs. reverse speed. I'm not sure where the 2 small rivet looking parts go that fell out as I removed the armature. The only place I could figure was on the end of the brush springs that go into the brush chambers. Oh well, bottom line is she runs great now. Thanks for the help everyone!

Rich

Lioneltin- The rear driver axle has the gear for the worm drive and has the lip on the wheels to secure the tire. I'd have to pull the drivers and change axles to do the switch, but I gotta tell you, I think you're logic is spot on!

"Those two things you called rivets go exactly were you thought they did" - Too funny Jim! Thanks for reassuring my guess work! I was wondering if they were just track droppings that got sucked up via the magnetic field!

Rich

The traction tires are in their proper place, on the driven axle. One thing I've noticed about most Franklins (besides being noisy) is the smoke unit doesn't smoke well. That's not because its the HO unit though. In checking the latest one on my workbench, I realized the smoke unit relies on the engine frame for one side of its power, and that is provided to the frame by the tender drawbar. Not a solid electrical connection, so I added a 5th wire from the tender front truck to the engine frame (used one of the motor mount screws and one of the reverse unit screws so the wire could be taken off in the future). Voila!! Much nice smoke now--still not much of a "choo-choo" but that IS an effect of the HO smaller smoke piston.

This interest in the 4-4-0 engines has made me what to put together a Roundhouse article about them in the S Gaugian.  My research indicates nothing has been done except a small piece by Tom Barker in 1977.  I checked with Tom and Doug Peck for fun yesterday.

The good news is that Doug has produced a kit with all the parts to replace what is inside a defective smoke unit including the plate that is usually broke in the process.  I hope to be able to get more information to put in the article.

This kit is not yet on his website.  Doug plans to release it soon.

Everyone have a great Christmas!

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OGR Publishing, Inc., 1310 Eastside Centre Ct, Ste 6, Mountain Home, AR 72653
800-980-OGRR (6477)
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