Any quick fixes for electrocoupler?

First check the resistance with an ohmmeter to verify its a broken wire or just a mechanical issue. If the coil is open you could remove it from the engine, peel off the tape and hope the break is on the outside. I have unwound all of wire just to make a splice. Not difficult, you just need something to wind the wire you take off onto some spool. If its broken its almost always near one end.

Pete

I don't know if this is a LC+ epidemic or not, but apparently it is for me. In addition to one non-functioning electrocoupler on the LC+ GP38,  my LC+ CNW RS-3 that I just unboxed has both electrocouplers not working. Checking these a bit further, power is getting to them. The couplers shake slightly when activated, and holding my fingers to them I can feel (and hear) the couplers buzzing. The problem is that the moving part of the coupler just seems to be stuck in the closed position.

Anyone have any further suggestions for a quick cure, or are they going to have to be taken apart, or replaced?

I've got the same problem with my LionChief+ GP38! 

Breezinup: Try some powdered graphite in the coupler pocket where the knuckle folds into the pocket. Kadee makes a product called "Grease-'em" (if I recall correctly). This may loosen them up so they work. Sometimes just manually moving the sliding parts a few times will break them in-maybe too much paint???

The only electro-coupler issue I've ever had was one on the front of my new N&W Train Master from two years ago; it arrived with one lead broken just as it came out of the black wrap around the coil. Once I soldered it back on, it has worked great ever since.

Well, I figured out the problem. Kind of interesting. I am using a small conventional transformer for a power supply to run the LC+ engines on a small layout around the Christmas tree. I had been turning up the transformer throttle lever about half way, having found that the engines all work fine at that setting, and they seem to work fine even at lower power settings.

Fiddling with the couplers, I tried sticking a toothpick into the couplers and saw the metal pin inside, and when I pushed that back the knuckle opened. So it seemed the pin wasn't retracting enough to release the knuckle. For some reasaon that caused me think perhaps it wasn't getting enough juice to pull the pins back, even though the couplers were buzzing when activated. So I increased the throttle on the transformer, and voila, the couplers now all work perfectly. 

Needless to say, it was a relief to discover this simple solution, and a lesson that while higher power settings aren't necessary to run LC+ engines, they are necessary to ensure proper electrocoupler operation.

Common issue, I've found that 15-16 VAC is required for many Lionel couplers, some will work at lower voltages, but not all.