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Hi Guys n Gals.

 

I have a lot of 0-27 track from different eras and manufactures including Lionel #1024 turnouts which I really like. I am thinking of a small switching layout in 0-27 just for kicks and giggles! Does anyone else have a layout using just 0-27 track? If yes would you call it a success?

 

Rick.

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Hi,

 

My layout in my loft is all Lionel 027. It works for me and looks pretty cool when balasted.Its a mixture od switching and continuous run

 

I know the curves are really sharp but they work for me and provided I am carefull with the engines and stock I have no problems. I can live with the sharp curves as I have limited space and you will also be surprised at how easy it is to run some of the larger stuff.

 

One of my favourit layouts using 027 featured on here is Curt's ( Juniata guy) - hope I got that right. There are some videos around.

 

MIKE

I am a big user of O27.  Utilized on my 350 sq feet of table....  I like the cost and the scale height.  I started with all 027 and 1024 switches, moved up to Lionel's O42 switches and I am now in the process of replacing all 38 Lionel O42 switches with Gargrave switches.  The Gargraves, despite having a different geometry, interchange with O27 track quite well.  The track conducts TMCC very well and it is durable.  It's limitation is lack of authenticity.  But, it is very inexpensive on eBay and its a product which helps on my train budget. 

 

Mike:

 

Thank you for the compliment!

 

Rick, I've had my 0-27 layout up and running for 23 years, 2 out of state moves and through 4 expansions.  Current footprint is roughly 15X16 feet.  The only part of it that isn't 0-27 is one 0-42 switch.  I have modified my 0-27 switches by removing part of the cover over the switch motor.  This enables me to operate 0-31 engines like the Lionel and MTH F-3's and GP-9's.  I also operate WBB scale FA's with no problem.

 

Now, I can't operate any of the Lionel and MTH scale stuff obviously, but since most of it is not within my budget, I've never lost any sleep over that.

 

When my son gets home from work, I'll see if I can talk him into doing a quick video and posting it to this thread.

 

Curt

Last edited by juniata guy

Like some of the others, I like the rail height of the 027-sized rail.  Downside is switch radii selection.  When I was actively pursuing 3-rail, there was a time that I used GarGraves switches with 027 adapter pins along with larger radii 027-sized track.  Worked pretty good and gives you a good selection of switch radii to choose from.  FWIW: 072 switches make a really nice looking yard ladder and function well.

I used O27 diameter curves for the OGR project "layout on a door" - The Reading Central - back a few years ago. I also mixed in some GarGraves simply because I had it on hand.

 

I was amazed with the large variety of my equipment that would take those tight curves with no problems. I "cheated" a little by hiding most of the tight curves with scenery for better visual effect.

 

A pivoting sector plate was used to get more operation within the tight 30"x80" confines of the layout.

 

 

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Jim

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My lower level is all 027 and has 5 switches and the following action items, all on a 4x8 sheet of plywood. Accesories/action items include Lionel Gantry Crane, Rotating aircraft beacom, Gabe the lamplighter, Bethlehem Steel culvert loader and unloader, Lionel aircraft Pylon, and MTH operating transfer wharehouse. A lot of fun using traditional sized rolling stock in conjuntion with Lionel Docksided and RMT Beep diesels.

 

 

Overview

Steel zone

crossing 5

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  • Steel zone
  • crossing 5

I love 027 and have had my layout, with 26 Marx switches, for over 30 years.  O27 with Marx switches at mostly $5 a pair is way less expensive than O gauge and allows more track and action in a smaller area in addition. 

 

I can run large locos like 2056, 2065, 2035, 756,and 671 and with the Marx metal switches, run all Marx including older engines with gears to edge of the wheel flange.

 

Check out the layout operation on youtube links below.

 

 

 

Overall view with 4 trains operating (2 on 1 loop)

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GQJRxSNqvLk

 

 

Mostly 2 trains on 1 loop & scratch built Turntable and Roundhouse

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=szGr4ymfJEs

 

 

Charlie

 

 

Last edited by Choo Choo Charlie

If you use O-27 profile track:

 

1.  If you have the room, have a loop of Marx O-34 or O-42 track.  That way you can run O-31 stuff.  Even if you have switches with a 27 curve, you can keep the 31 stuff on the main.

 

2.  Marx locos really do not like Lionel switches.  They will run on them, but tend to be jumpy on them.

 

3.  Have a loop with no switches or crossings.  Sensitive trains can go there.

Marx 034 is the best kept secret of 027-profile-rail running.  Sure, you have to buy used, but it's out there, and the long straight sections made to go with it reduce the number of track joints.  The switches look different but good.  The one pothole--almost literally--is the crossing section, which is meant for slider shoes, not rollers.  The hole in the center will let rollers fall into it and probably derail the engine.  It will certainly derail cars with rollers--I ran a Lionel SP caboose on a layout with a Marx crossing once, and the caboose leapt most spectacularly into the air at every lap.   Fill in the hole with some sheet strene painted to match, and the cars ought to be happier.

There is nothing wrong with using 027 in an industrial switching setting.  I use these manual switches all over the place.  With some ballast and ground foam, they look great.  I have found that for switching it is best to limit the curve to one track length (45 degrees).  Coupling can be an issue otherwise which then takes all of the fun out of a switching layout.  

Originally Posted by juniata guy:

Mike:

 

Thank you for the compliment!

 

 I have modified my 0-27 switches by removing part of the cover over the switch motor.

Curt

Curt....Can/would you please provide the details and hopefully some pictures about how you did this? My hope is that it will somewhat make them easier to blend into a given scene.

 

Thanks,

Ken

Originally Posted by Strogey:

Curt....Can/would you please provide the details and hopefully some pictures about how you did this? My hope is that it will somewhat make them easier to blend into a given scene.

 

Thanks,

Ken




 

 

I took the huge signal housing off of my Lionel 0-27  0-42 switches and just put a cover over the slots in the top of the housing.  I used craft foam from Hobby Lobby.

 

 

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Jumijo:

 

Thank you for the compliment!  Any scenery skills I have picked up over the years have all been unashamedly borrowed from folks like you, Frank53 and Rich Battista. 

 

Ken, I have attached before and after photos of a switch to show you where I cut, the angle of the cut and how much I remove.  Of course, you need to remove the switch cover to make the cut.  I've used a hack saw and a keyhole saw in the past, but much prefer doing this with a Dremel now.  When done, you can glue a small piece of styrene over the opening and paint it to match the switch, if you wish.  I've always chosen to just leave it open and so far, no one who has seen my layout has ever seemed to notice the missing corners.  I'll apologize for the sideways orientation of the photos.  I had them saved right side up, but for some reason they attached to this post sideways.

 

I should also mention that I add the .22uf disk capacitors to the switches to "shield" the non-derailing pulse from MTH PS2.0 engines.  I don't have the issue with all of them, but according to an electronics wiz friend of mine, the reset frequency on some MTH engines matches this little electrical pulse from the switch and causes the engine to stop and reset itself.  Once I added these disk capacitors, the problem disappeared.

 

Curt

Switch cover - before

Switch cover - after

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Last edited by juniata guy

One shortcoming with the old 1122 non-derailing O27 switches is that they draw power continuously for the non-derailing feature as long as a train with metal wheels is on the switch with power applied. Another shortcoming is that they do not have ready provision for fixed voltage input, although I have modified mine without too much trouble, and this improves their operation. I wrote about these 1122 switches previously:

 

 

... these switches need more consideration about power supply, especially if you have multiple switches in a smaller track plan ... [I've tried] capacitor discharge supplies for these switches. But here is one of the quirks: Suppose you have a train going through a small reverse loop with an 1122 switch powered by capacitor discharge. The switch triggers automatically and unnecessarily when the train enters the loop, and if the train goes through the loop too fast the capacitor may not be adequately charged to fire the switch again for the train to exit the loop. Same problem with different switches in close proximity, unless each has its own capacitor discharge supply.

 

I have an existing O-gauge layout with some O22 switches and their non-derailing feature works great, especially with fixed voltage input.

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