If you have a #213 does it work well? What do you think of it over all and is it operating on your layout. Pictures? Don
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I don't have one, but they are great to watch. I think you need a reason for them to be raised and sometimes that's hard to design into a small layout. Without an animated boat to go under, it may be hard to explain why it has to go up. All great storytelling challenge. But they are cool for sure.
Well built bridge but has a few drawbacks in my opinion. No sounds like warning horn or bell. You have to hold the up/down lever for bridge to raise or lower and it does not shut off automatically when it reaches the top or lowered bottom positions. Wish the red tower light flashed.
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Mine goes over the entrance to my engine yard. It is a nicely constructed bridge - metal construction. I purchased it because it reminded me of the Gil Hodges bridge in Brooklyn, where I grew up. I agree with Troy’s comments on the minor drawbacks, but would add one which is a bit more concerning. When I was starting my layout, @leapinlarry was kind enough to point out that it has a LOW clearance - I think it is 4”, so if you run anything with pantographs or scale maxi-stacks, etc., they can’t fit cross the bridge.
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I had one but sold it. Lionel’s scale auto racks wouldn’t pass through because of the low clearance. They will pass through the 12782 lift bridge.
Neal Jeter
Do a forum search for the topic “Access Door Into Layout” by David Minarik. That is the coolest installation of a 213 lift bridge I have ever seen. (I would have inserted a link if I wasn’t posting this from my phone. )
Neal, so a overhead wire system would force the pantograph down too low? Don
I've probably installed a dozen of them.
I have modify a couple bridges to increase clearance, that you wouldn't really notice the changes. That said, I have had to modify the bascule bridge on some layouts also.
The 213 works well using two consecutive accessory positions on an SC-2. (Aux1) the higher number to lift the span and the lower number to lower the span.
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Don:
Look at the photo above and you can see that there is very little clearance with that diesel as it enters the bridge. I don't believe you could run a wire through there without it forcing the pantograph to low.
Neal
I loved mine,however ,I have 2 boards go bad,last time no replacements,so the tec wired to a dc power pack,worked ok but sold it for other reasons,nice effort tho
I have two of the bridges mounted side by side for a double track mainline. They look and run well. The clearance is too low for many modern cars. I run my NH electrics with the pantographs down and imagine that they are running in 3rd rail territory approaching GCT.
NH Joe
I'm interested in one too. I'd like to paint it blue like the harlem river bridge into NYC. Does it seem like it could be painted easily?
New Haven Joe posted:I have two of the bridges mounted side by side for a double track mainline. They look and run well. The clearance is too low for many modern cars. I run my NH electrics with the pantographs down and imagine that they are running in 3rd rail territory approaching GCT.
NH Joe
I also have two bridges on parallel mainlines. There is a 313 on a third track. They are all across a cut in the layout that will become a river. I wired them to raise in tandem; because why would one be raised without the other? I didn't install a warning bell; but at one end I used an MTH signal bridge with Pennsy 9 position signals to indicate a stop as soon as the bridge starts to rise. On the other end I installed two banjo signals that make a racket and wag like crazy while the bridge is up. After seeing a smash board on the bridge adjacent to NJ truck 1&9. I wanted to simulate a smash board and thought about using an HO crossing gate but opted for the banjo signal without the X-buck on top. My recent post "What would you do?" has several pictures attached. This was a discussion about clearances. I sometimes have one not seat properly after coming down. It is usually reset by completely raising and lowering.
I have one and am just in the process of installing on my layout. I figured a way to control it with the ASC. I did find an OTT Sound system that will work well with the bridge. There are some alternatives to providing sound.
WaynePA posted:I have one and am just in the process of installing on my layout. I figured a way to control it with the ASC. I did find an OTT Sound system that will work well with the bridge. There are some alternatives to providing sound.
I was able to use the ASC for mine - set up two accessories, Bridge Up and Bridge Down. Too Techno-Peasanty to try and add sound!!! Way cool.
phoch00 posted:I'm interested in one too. I'd like to paint it blue like the harlem river bridge into NYC. Does it seem like it could be painted easily?
I am NOT a painter, but I think I can add some observations...
The majority of the bridge is black metal with a slight sheen. It is pretty detailed (rivets and such). As you can see from some of the pics on this post, there are quite a few members/cross members. The track base is plastic. The mechanisms extend above the two towers and appear to be brass. The outside of the counterweights are plastic. All that being said, while it may be possible to paint it blue, I would not use the word “easily”
The counter weights and cables are packed separately, so the counter weights could be painted before assembly. The brass referred to are the spiked wheels that the control the cables. I would cover them while painting the towers.
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I think this is a great accessory! Mine fried its board too. I wired the motor for the bridge to an ERR Mini Commander and I operate the bridge with my CAB2. I had to wire the LEDs to track power via a rectifier and a capicitor to convert to DC. I should find a board to make them flash. I like the idea of adding sound. I have to work on that....
I had to cut cross members of the bridge too and I modified how the bridge attached to the plastic base to get the clearance I need for Atlas O maxi stacks. It was a bit of work, but worth the effort. This scene is getting there. I have to pour water, add a shanty for the bridge operator and do more scenicing...
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I have both the Lift and Bascule bridges in parallel across an access to a seldom-used storeroom. They've both run flawlessly since day 1. For the equipment I run I haven't had to make any clearance mods, either.
Re sound, however, something more prototypical to the ear besides the usual grinding of Lionel gears, pulleys, levers, etc., is on the to-do list.....but rather far down. Stuck, in fact.
Nonetheless, when that day comes, I'll be contacting George at ITT Products. He already offers sound chip GL-603 for a Bascule Bridge. And, because he's one of the most accommodating, responsive suppliers I've dealt with, if I ask for another 'bridge-like' sound chip for the Lift Bridge, he'll probably email back a sample...or two...shortly for approval. And, typically, there's been no premium for such a customization. (Years ago he synthesized a 1-minute chip for a tugboat: Sloshing water, seagull squawk, engine burble, single-chime boat whistle,as was on the model...a distant buoy bell, etc., all in about 48 hours. Good to go, first shot!)
Geez, Don, I know you're on Maui, but I hope for your pals on the big island to be safe. And, I don't suppose George (ITT) would have any use for 'Flowing Lava' or 'Belching Lava Vent' sounds (a.k.a., Pooping Pele) to add to his library, so..
KD