Wiring for Gargraves track

You can run your drops to a feeder wire. You don't really need many ground drops and unless you have insolated sections it doesn't matter which outside rail you ground. I always thought 3 foot feeders was overkill.

I agree with Jim1939 on the ground drops. While a good "ground" is important, alternating drops could get in the way of isolating an outside rail for accessory operations (if you choose to do that). You can save wire and just jumper from one outside rail to the other wherever it is needed.   

As for your hot (red) feeder question...in looking at your track plan, i would run a hot feed to two terminal strips - one strip at each side of layout - and distribute your track feeders from there.  A 10x14 layout is not that huge that you'd have a significant loss of voltage over your distances such that you'd need a bus wire around the entire layout.

I am attaching this link on the forum.  Look at 2 train wiring info.

https://ogrforum.com/fileSendA...sformer%20manual.pdf

Only feed either the outside (or inside) rail not both, as you lose one of the great features of 3R operation.  Let the wheels complete the circuit.

Study the separation of "blocks" on the link.  Conventional can operation work just fine.  As mentioned previously you don't need a feed every 36".  Spend the money you save on wire, on buying something "fun" for your layout.

Thanks for all the advice and I will review the link for sure, thanks for that. Looking for a little clarification on the replies: 1) If every 36 inches is overkill what would you recommend...48, 60 or more? 2)Only feed either the outside (or inside) rail not both, as you lose one of the great features of 3R operation. What is the great feature? the wheels completing the circuit? Any idea why local long time in business and custom layout builder train store advised to alternate the ground rail?

Thanks!

@Roy MacKinnon posted:

Thanks for all the advice and I will review the link for sure, thanks for that. Looking for a little clarification on the replies: 1) If every 36 inches is overkill what would you recommend...48, 60 or more? 2)Only feed either the outside (or inside) rail not both, as you lose one of the great features of 3R operation. What is the great feature? the wheels completing the circuit? Any idea why local long time in business and custom layout builder train store advised to alternate the ground rail?

Thanks!

1) If every 36 inches is overkill what would you recommend...48, 60 or more?

When i first got my gargraves trackage layed out i tested its conductivity and found i could power about 100 feet of track with one connection and minimal voltage loss.  Add in switches, eventual dust and dirt, more engines and lighted cars and you'll need more feeders.  I have found so far 6 feet to be sufficient.  But since you are putting your spade connectors in from the bottom and probably do not want to have to rip up track to fix a problem area, they probably recommended the 3 ft distance.

2)Only feed either the outside (or inside) rail not both, as you lose one of the great features of 3R operation. What is the great feature? the wheels completing the circuit?

Yes, with wood ties isolating either "ground" rail, you can easily create an insulated track segment by isolating one section of one ground rail from the rest of the trackage and use it to trigger a crossing gate, block signal, panel lights or other accessories.  See https://lionelllc.wordpress.co...utside-rail-6-12029/. Only with Gargraves or Ross wood tie trackage you dont need to buy a special section.

Any idea why local long time in business and custom layout builder train store advised to alternate the ground rail?

Probably just for added assurance you have no electrical problems.  Even if you do alternate your "ground" connections and find you want to create an isolated segment for item 2 above, simply cut the wire to the track and use it for your accessory.