I have need of assistance on how to connect my Lionel O22 switches to Gargraves track. I have both Gargraves insulating pins and the Lionel to Gargraves pins. However the insulated pin on the outer rail of the Lionel switch has me perplexed. How does one address this. Do I use a Gargraves insulating pin or do I trim the one on the Lionel switch?
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The two important things to remember is to make sure your track rails line up and to make sure they are totally isolated so as to insure the automatic switch works properly.
If you whittle down the Lionel pin it will never work with tubular track again. I would simply leave the pin out and making sure the track is level and secure just put a little bit of silicone between them. Shape the dried silicone so as to insure a smooth joint. Save the Lionel insulator pin for future use.
I know the silicone is a little bit of a problem clean off should you ever wont to right your switch for O-Gauge tubular use but it can be done with a little WD40.
I have done this before with success, but hopefully someone will come up with a better idea.
You do know that Ross makes a really nice switch for this purpose and they work ten times better then the old O-22's.
Good Luck
What GG1 man said, except, I just leave a tiny gap between the gargraves and the insulated rail. Just be sure the other two rails are tight and the track and switch are secure and even at that point.
I would suggest using a short section of tubular track connecting directly to the switch with the insulating pin in the appropriate location, then use the metal adapter pins between the tubular track and GarGraves track.
Or use the metal adapter pins to connect the tubular switch directly to GarGraves track, and cut a gap in the GarGraves track 2 or 3 inches back from the rail joint.
In other words, avoid having the insulating joint in the same place as the connection between different types of track.
When I was a "boy" and the little black insulator pins disappeared - we whittled a round tooth pick to replace it - worked fine every time and we could afford the fix.
GG1man, I am intrigued by your comment about 022 switches. I have about 150 of them, and after suitable restoration, they are bulletproof. And they work with the sliding shoes which the Ross switches don't. I have posted a long thread telling in detail how to restore 022 switches: 022/711 switch operating pblms. Use Google to find it. I had a floor layout a few years ago with 40 022 switches on the main line. The switches were wired in pairs so that the loco would throw both switches with the non-derailing feature. I had no problems with switches no working properly or trains derailing. I have a 2-8-8-2 USRA Rail King loco by MTH. It runs through the 022 switches just fine. I don't think you could ask for a better switch (after restoration).
Thank you for the thoughts on toothpicks and a section of tubular track. After I read both suggestions, I went d'oh I'm an idiot.
You could use a short section of Gargraves straight track(about 9 or 10 inches) with adapter pins to Gargraves track and insulate the track after the first section of Gargraves track. This cuts down on all the fancy stuff others have said to do that may work but may look bad unless sanded & painted.
Most of all make sure that the Gargraves track is shimmed some after the 022 switch as Gargraves track is slightly lower then O gauge track.
Also Ross makes a very nice 042 switch that will mate directly to Gargraves track, just need Gargraves or Ross track pins.
Lee Fritz