Atlas 0-6-0 does not operate on 0-36 switches

Would adding a higher guard rail across from the frong help?

I was thinking about that. Don't know if it needs to be higher than the outside rails, but thinking that maybe attaching a longer guard rail might help but if Atlas or Ross or Gargrave switches would work without any mods, I would rather do that. Don't have any of these to test, though.

RAY

Does it derail there if the switch is replaced by a regular 036 curved track? Does it only derail on that particular switch?

An image of the track work in question with the engine would help problem solving a lot.

I had one of these, bought new, and was so dissatisfied with it that I sold it and converted a Weaver brass 0-6-0 to Cruise Commander.

- It would not handle GarGraves 0-100(!) switches without derailing - the sprung driver's springs are too soft - I suspect that this is your problem. I gave up - I like sprung drivers, and I often fix/improve things, but I didn't like the loco well enough to bother. I knew the Weaver was more sure-footed, had better detailing, to me (the Atlas drivers are incorrect - note main driver counterweight, as I recall). Some detail fell off, the EOB was maddening (I turned it off) and the tether kept falling out.

But, not your problem; I'm glad someone liked them. See if your drivers are a little flabby. Springs can be removed and replaced with shims (I've done it on a brass 4-6-2).

Bobbyd, it handles 0-36 curves OK, no issues. It is only with the 0-36 FasTrack switches - all of them, I have only 3. I have some 0-48 that work good.

D500, will have to check on the springs, thanks for the advise.

RAY

Two issues come to mind.   With no blind drivers, you're pushing the Atlas 0-6-0 to it's limits on 036.   Negotiating switches that tight only brings out the worst in the engine.

The other issue is the unusual dual tether.  Couple it with the former issue and I see a tug o war over tolerances happening.

Bruce

Since O36 diameter is the Atlas spec, is Atlas O36 track different than Lionel's other than the rounded rail top which may be the cause?

There are no track standards in our O gauge world.  An engine may work fine on an Atlas O-36 switch but not on a Lionel switch of the same size,  Manufacturers tend to test engines using their own brand of track.  O-36 is very tight (18 inch radius).  Even the HO guys don't use 18 inch radius anymore because almost nothing works well with this tight of a curve.   The only place I use O-36 is around the Christmas tree with no switches.

NH Joe

Atlas 3 rail and Lionel FasTrack are both measured to the center rail for diameter.  As for the rounded vs square rail head, that might be some of it.  As for derailing on the switches only, how is it doing so?  Is it the locomotive, or the tender that comes off?

I asked because I have the Lionel Legacy B6sb, it's a 0-6-0 steam switcher with a tether.  The tether comes straight out of the tender and has a straight connector into the locomotive.  It handles O36 FT track just fine.  But the tender was climbing out of the track on my O36 switches (Which were parallel spurs, or crossovers to parallel tracks, so the shape of S curves.).  Also, if run for any length of time on my O36 figure 8, I'd loose sounds because the tether would come out of the locomotive.  After studying the issues (And another tether issue I won't go into here.) I saw that the rubber case of the tether was dragging on the opening in the tender, not sliding freely, so that's why it'd pull out of the locomotive if run for a long time, or pull the tender off of the track in the switches.  My solution was to go from the better looking straight short tether to pulling the tether out and making a loop before plugging in to the the locomotive, older MTH tether style.  Yes, there is now a big loop of thick wire between the locomotive and cab, but now the locomotive works fantastically, the tether stays connected, and it handles all my track and switches well.

So in a nutshell, what I suggest is if your tender is straight, pull it out to see how much slack you have and make a loop between the locomotive and tender and see if your switch issue goes away.

Have been doing more testing yesterday. First off, the tether consists of 2 cables from the tender to the engine, connected underneath the draw bar, unlike MTH or Lionel. The engine has flanges on the center driver, which I believe adds another dimension (issue) to running on tight curves/switches. It is funny that my engine has no issue on the 0-36 cures, only on the 0-36 switch. I have only one short section of 0-36 curves, and it's a half curve at that. 

I happen to have a GarGraves 0-42 switch and tested it on that yesterday, and it operated flawless. 

My next test over the next several days will be to extend the guard rail and see if that helps. 

I think, however, the biggest issue will be with the center drive flange, and I have no interest in cutting it down. May have to rework my track plan to include larger switches, and hold off using the 0-6-0 for yard service!

RAY

I have the NYC version of this engine. My problem is with the enability of this engine to negotiate GarGraves uncoupling tracks and Lionel UCS tracks. The engine sits too low causing it to hang up on the magnet. It just spins it's drivers when it runs up on the uncoupling track / UCS track. I am a big Atlas fan but they said that thier engines are not tested on all track types of track��.

My 0 6 0 has been looking pretty sitting in the yard for a few years now.

Thanks,

Richard