Atlas O Dash 8-32BW Problems

So I know it's been a really long time since I have updated you guys on the status of my Dash 8, I took a pretty long break from the hobby and recently I decided to get back into it since I actually quite missed doing this.

Anyway, the status of my Dash 8 is unchanged. It still behaves the same as it has when it went nuts. But hopefully tomorrow I will go over to the SD3R club and do a factory reset of the engine. If that doesn't work I will be buying a new R2LC board and replace the malfunctioning one. Thankfully I can still buy all the boards for my engine so I should be able to get it back into service, and I really want to get it back into service since my Dash 8 is quite special to me. I can't even find any of them for sale online, which I assume Atlas O didn't sell to many of them or let alone make that many of them.

Anyway, I will keep you guys updated on the progress of my Dash 8. Fingers crossed that a factory reset is all that it will need.

So quick update, factory reset did not work. But I will be ordering a replacement R2LC board since that is really the only thing that can control the motors.

Also, the "Run - Program" switch is working correctly in command mode. When in run mode the engine can switch between directions when it is told to do it. In program mode it's locked into one direction.

Hi, MB!

I ended up having to replace all of the electronics, because it was the motor board that was blown.  Under the board, by the D-Packs, there was black marks where the short occurred. 

In my case, the NYSW 8-40B had all of the TMCC functions, except the unit wouldn’t move. 

Because the SAW2 board wasn’t available, I had to replace all of them.  I ended up losing all of the ancillary functions of the SAW2, like flashing ditch lights.  I had to hard wire these into other light circuits.

https://youtu.be/Qp0sF7wFcXY

Also, in my case, it had already gone back to Atlas for a repair once for the same issue, and they had replaced the motor driver and D-Packs and had milled out the weight to make them a heat sink. 

Thanks,

-Mario

Aw jeez... I'm about to check the motherboard in that case, I hope mine isn't going to have that problem...

Edit:

Yep... Mine's got the exact same problem... Bummer, well I'm paying for the repair out of my own pocket. So I might be upgrading the system to a modern one. Most likely Protosound 3.0...

Edit 2:

On second thought, I'm going to try and fix it, the board is already messed up a little bit, so there's no harm in trying to solder on a new part and see if it works.

Today's the day I go to fix the engine, I'm crossing my fingers that the fixes will make it work again.

In theory it should work after the fixes, but there's also a chance it's so much more messed up than I thought it is. If that is the case, it won't be worth it to continue fixing the original system and just get a Protosound 3.0 kit installed in it.

If I will need to install Protosound 3.0 into the engine, I will make a thread documenting the process of it getting the treatment.

It is with great sadness that I have to announce that the TMCC system in my Dash 8 has bit the dust. I tried replacing the burnt component and I also fixed the trace. Now when I apply track power, the speaker makes a buzzing sound and just sits there. Eventually the circuit breaker on my MTH Z750 transformer trips, indicating that there is a short.

So this day marks the end of an era for my Dash 8. I will miss it's bi-directional LED marker lights, since now it's hopefully going to get a Protosound 3.0 sound system installed inside it.

The thread can be locked now, since there is nothing that can be further done to fix the system.

How bout a replacement motherboard?

Matt Makens posted:

How bout a replacement motherboard?

Can't find a single one of those, plus there's most likely more than one type. It's a Train America Studios SAW GEN2.

Edit: After removing the wire used to fix the broken trace, the engine started working again (minus the motors).

CentralFan1976 posted:

Hi, MB!

I ended up having to replace all of the electronics, because it was the motor board that was blown.  Under the board, by the D-Packs, there was black marks where the short occurred. 

 

Can you list everything you needed to get to make your engine work again? As well as take a picture of what all the electronics look like inside. I'm curious as to how you were able to get the original sounds along with all new electronics, since I would prefer to keep those original sounds.

I also noticed that the "Cruise Commander M" supports oscillating ditch lights and marker lights, so I'm really wanting to get that in my engine. But I don't think the Commander M will fit in my engine with the original electronics.

I have several TAS boards I can let go

Matt Makens posted:

I have several TAS boards I can let go

Are those in kit form and have instructions on how to wire them and what functions the board has?

There are not SAW kits, they are guts from other locos

they have plugs on them

Thanks for the offer, but it seems like a hassle to rewire the entire engine to make it work with that board. Since I will most likely screw something up in the wiring, and I will most likely loose lighting features that I sort of want to keep.

The simplest solution I could think of is to buy another Amtrak TMCC controlled engine from Ebay, remove the motors from my Atlas O Dash 8, and run the 2 engines in a train configuration. The broken Dash 8 would roll freely without the motors and make sounds. The other engine would serve as the main power unit for the engine.

But at the same time, I don't like the idea of having to rely on a second engine to use along side a broken one.

Its not a rewire, why are you making this more difficult than it needs to be. These are direct replacement boards with the plugs on them. The simplest solution is to replace the damaged component with another one. I have both repaired these and repowered them with ERR boards and PS2/PS3 upgrades. Neither of the latter are easy

I know this thread has been dead for quite some time, but I think I have a plan as to how I will bring my engine back to full working order. My plan is to buy a motherboard from Lionel product number 6-28230, as well as almost all of the wiring harnesses. But replace the DCDS board with the ERR Cruise Commander M (this will allow to to have cruise control and also still have the oscillating ditch lights. But I have a few questions regarding the upgrade.

First off, will I be able to use the Train America Studios smoke unit that's already in the engine? Second, what is the AC regulator used for? Also, will that PWM connection from the board to the DCDS be a plug and play connection into the Commander M?

I already have already found the reference guide as to what each connector is for that particular motherboard. So the installation of the electronics sound be a lot easier.