I am trying to wire my Bascule Bridge 313. See Pics. I keep blowing 10 amp fuse when I attach wire 14 to accessory power, 15 v, and wire 15 to common ground. No other wires connected at this point. Bridge is sitting loose, separate from contact with tracks or track power. Any ideas?
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I wired mine from the transformer to the bridge then the bridge to the switch I didn't wire to the track at all.
Try Hooking a OHM meter across wires you numbered 14 and 15 on the bridge and see if you see a dead short 0 ohm or 1 or 2 ohms, if you detect a short the PC board inside the house might have a short in it! also smell the house board with your nose and see if it smell like something burning up! have you ever tried the bridge before, did it work or not? get back to me and tell me what you found out.
Alan
I bought the Bascule Bridge years ago, but I am just now beginning to use it. When I put an OHM meter across wires 14 and 15 I get a reading of .2.I don't perceive a smell but that be because it immediately shorts out my power.
Did you ever figure it out
No, not yet. I get a short indication across the 14 and 15 wire. I want to wire mine for separate control not activated by the tracks. I guess the circuit board is bad.
Wire 14 and wire 15 as you show are both positive leads. Wire 14 goes to center rail and wire 15 goes to center rail of U channel. If you want to skip all that block stuff on the track with the U channel don't use 14 and 15. OK looks like hook wire 10 to positive terminal and wire 11 to negative terminal. Then hook a switch to wire 12 and 13 .
Hi again did you try tracing where the wires 14 and 15 go on the circuit board,you may see something if you try to trace out where the wires connect on the electronic board, can you put some exploded pictures on the forum maybe we can help you figure it out!
Alan
Wire 15 goes to the center rail outside the insulated track sections on either side of the bridge; i.e., wire 15 gets the same center rail wiring as on the rest of the loop outside the bridge and isolated track sections--it is not connected to ground.
I had hooked 14 to grd and 15 to hot so I probably shorted somewhere on the board. Is there some way to bypass the board if I want to just use a switch to raise and lower the bridge??
Did you ever figure it out
No I have not figured it out. I think the board is shorted out. Can I just wire around the board so I can operate the motor to raise and lower the bridge from a switch?
I had hooked 14 to grd and 15 to hot so I probably shorted somewhere on the board. Is there some way to bypass the board if I want to just use a switch to raise and lower the bridge??
probably.. What about a momentary double pole double throw toggle switch wired like an "HO" reversing switch connected directly to the Can motor(I'm guessing it has a can motor?) You'd have to find a dc power supply. Or you could also use a DPDT center off toggle .(wired like an HO reversing switch)
That's such a focal point of a layout, I'd replace the board to preserve its automatic up/down function and automatic track power on/off switch to the isolated track on the bridge approaches.
As Gregg mentioned, the motor in the bridge is likely DC powered, so you'd need to be able to reverse the polarity at the motor to reverse its direction up or down if you don't want to replace the board.
No, for that I will replace the board. Ordered one at Lionel. thanks.
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