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I'm sure this has been posted time and time again about how Lionel FasTrack and bridges don't really go together if your looking for realism in your layout. I just started getting back into this hobby now that I have graduated college and my vehicles are done getting built. I've got a 3 layer layout started in which 3 of the trains will be on trestles/bridges which I'll have to custom build. I already have a lot of FasTrack and at the moment don't want to have to buy more, so my question is has anyone tried making a wooden "insert" I suppose that could go from the sides of the bridge, over the plastic parts of the FasTrack (not sure if that makes any sense). Basically take bassWood and make inserts in between the rails and on the sides so it covers the gray roadbed and actually looks correct while suspended in the air. If anyone has any pictures or ideas let me know! If not I'll take on the task and see if I can work something together and post some pics. Thanks!

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Check out the new FasTrack Extended Truss Bridge, that's as close as a Lionel bridge gets for FasTack or, you can go with an Atlas Truss Bridge using FasTrack conversion pieces. Either way, as I'm sure it will be pointed out sooner or later, how real is FasTrack anyway. Doesn't matter to me, I use tinplate O-gauge track but others will share their thoughts.

Mike

Where the track is on land I was going to use woodland scenics products and cover it up to make it look more "realistic" and I may consider cutting it. I would use the FasTrack truss bridge but it will also be going around turns, so making my own would be best. Just time consuming. I have some thinking to do though. I have an idea, I'll post up some pics when I get around to it 

I have not attempted this idea but was having the same thoughts as you regarding the look of both FastTrack and MTH Realtrax on bridges.  My thinking is that I want to buy a few pieces of ScaleTrax (or Gargraves or Atlas) to go across the bridge and then use the FastTrack transition pieces, remove the pins from bridge side and then connect via wires from underneath. It may not be perfect, but it would provide a roadbed to non road bed transition.

Keep us posted. 

 

 

Ahh yes, I face this dilemna too. I decided to use the girder plate bought from scenic express. They are long, 26 inches. Now this is in the conceptual phase I should add LOL. My plan was to use the plate on both sides and using woodland scenic black ballast or coal to make the make side portion of the fastrack disappear. With some weathering chalks the gray girder should look great.

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  • Girder Bridge

MADGRTY,

it's easy enough to bend the tabs straight on the bottom of FasTrack at the end, lift the rails and remove the FasTrack connector pins. Turn the track over, press down on the rails and rebend the tabs closed with a flat blade screwdriver.

Now, clean out the ends of the rails with plastic using a 7/64" drill, keeping the bit against the top of the inside of the rail as a guide.

You now have an O track pin hole, which will connect to Gargraves or Atlas track with their O transition pins.

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