bubbling tower bubbled out?

If the tube is still sealed it should be ok.

The light bulb may need to be replaced if  it is old and dimming.

If you raise the voltage to the bulb it will get hotter and brighter (or burn out).

The tube operates on heat rather than light, but the light makes it easier to see the bubbles.

There could also be to much of air gap between the bulb and the base of the tube.

Try these folks if you need K-Line parts -http://www.brasseurelectrictrains.com/klineinfo.asp

It's been my experience that regardless of age, these tubes usually need a little provocation to start bubbling. Years ago I got a set of replica dental tools at some blowout center. They've come in very handy for like uncoupling postwar cars without finger tabs.

They're also handy for giving a light tab or two to the bubbling tubes to get them going. I've played around with different voltage bulbs... obviously the hotter the bulb, the more likely you'll get bubbling action without tapping. But then again, on those K-Line and Marx towers, you risk melting the plastic base.

I went to the trouble to make a new base out of wood, with a piece of copper pipe for the tube to be snugly set into, with the light bulb up inside that pipe... figuring that would focus the heat of the light bulb more directly to the bubbling tube. I still have to give it a gentle tap to get it going.

I've bought new replacement tubes and find the same thing... a gentle tap is what it really takes to start the bubbling action.

I agree with the guys above ... it is the lack of heat ... the bulb needs to be directly under the tube and touching or almost touching.  Every once in a while I need to use a little craft stick or tooth pick to start it bubbling ... hold one end then use the other hand / finger  to pull the pick back and let it it tap/ snap the tube ( like holding  one end of the pick flat on the table the lifting the other up and letting go ..Snap )  : )  hope this helps...... Brasseure does sell tubes .. got one from them.. $26.00

I used thermal heatsink compound on one of the oil rig models, that really helped get the bubbles started.

gunrunnerjohn posted:

I used thermal heatsink compound on one of the oil rig models, that really helped get the bubbles started.

How did you apply it?  the stuff I am thinking of is opaque.

JZ

I just went through this with an MTH oil tower. The tap is needed. It could also be the bulb filament aging and not emitting enough heat. That looks like a double length tube in the water tower.

What I cannot find is the longevity of the stuff in the bottom of the tube to get the bubbling going. Patents, discussions, etc, of reading and no info on the expected life span.

I have my Marx bubbling water tower on a separate small transformer.  After it's been shut off for a while, it usually needs a bit higher voltage to get it started bubbling again.  So I turn up the power till the bubbling starts, then reduce it again as far as I can.

I second ToyTrainYard's advice above.

jhz563 posted:

gunrunnerjohn posted:

I used thermal heatsink compound on one of the oil rig models, that really helped get the bubbles started.

How did you apply it?  the stuff I am thinking of is opaque.

JZ

I have some that looks like a clear gel, I think I got it a long time ago.  I also have the white paste that probably wouldn't allow much light through.

My Flyer and old Marx bubbling tubes always start way before the two Kline towers, if they start at all.  They are all on the same voltage line and the Kline still has significant trouble starting.  And the bulb is up tight against the tube.  As a result, I don't buy the Kline towers anymore

I have the Colber model which is just about the same thing.  What I ended up doing was taking the metal shield off the bottom where the bulb is, and lining it with foil so it would reflect more up and it has worked like a champ and that was over 5 years ago...

Marty

I think the solids are a sodium to help agitate, direct  flow & distribute heat.

The bubblers can die off . Some last "forever" some die quickly, its luck of the draw more than anything from what I gathered from researching the Christmas Tree lights that use them. I guess theres ony one or two companies that actually make the bulbs and bubblers.

If you cant find a clear compound, try forming a crown on each  surface. I like the tube idea.     I wonder if steel might be better for retaining the heat to the area? Basically I wonder , is copper moving more heat by contact or losing some potential of its shape, to fresh air contact and efficient heat exchange over a steel tube? High heat plastic tubing seems the winnner if you could find one. Maybe one formed from JBWeld?

Thanks everyone.