Can this be REPAIRED??

I think you need two parts. A knuckle and a rivet.

Yes, easily repaired. A well stocked parts dealer will have the missing knuckle, spring and rivet. No, I can't recommend a dealer as I do my own repairs. Maybe someone on the list can recommend.

Steve

Thanks for the info, but I'm not sure I know what to do if I got these parts you mentioned.  Is there a resource available on how to place these parts in the coupler?

Absolutely repairable

Is there a train store near you? If they have the parts they can show you how to fit them or maybe do it for you, no charge. I would. Its a two minute job. 

Pete

Call, Jeff

ttender.com

AG.

Jeff's phone number at the Train Tender is.
        Phone: 585-229-2050 

The easy way is to use the plastic coupler with the spring molded on and the rivet.  All you have to do is open up the end of the rivet a bit to hold it.

If you use the cast coupler and real spring you get a much better job, but it takes a bit of technique to get the coupler, spring, and rivet in place.

"but it takes a bit of technique to get the coupler, spring, and rivet in place"

+1 on that.

Greg, if you do decide to order the parts make sure you get a few extra springs at least. They are tiny and easily lost. Most parts guys sell springs and rivets in packs of ten. Get a ten pack as a lot of Post War will have broken springs that need replacing. While a rivet tool would be ideal you can just use something like a center punch to spread the rivet. You can stop there or use a pin punch to further flatten the rivet for looks. Remove the truck before doing this and make sure to place a block under the rivet head to support the coupler which is diecast and can be broken by an errant blow.

Pete

What's wrong with studying the coupler on the other end of the car to see how it's put together? Your making the job a lot more complicated then it really is.

the coupler and trucks are put together with rivets.  I dont have tools to take apart the rivots and don't want to create further damage.  

You don't have to take anything apart. Your 3519 car looks like it is all set to accept a new knuckle, and a new rivet.
The spring is nice to have, it makes the knuckle open when it's released, but you don't really need it. If another car is pulling on the knuckle when you operate the uncouple button, the knuckle will open.

Here is an Ebay lot with the parts you need.

You can also get them from any parts dealer.

The reason your car is ready to accept the new knuckle is because there was a time when Lionel made their knuckles with built-in retainers. The retainers turned out to be weak and broke easily , leaving the coupler ready to accept a replacement. Sometimes there is a bit of the old knuckle that needs to be pried out. Yours does not seem to have any remains.

Gregcz1,

As C.W. Burfle stated all you need are two parts.

1. #9050-56 Knuckle

2 #TC-23 Knuckle rivet.

The only other thing you need is a small hammer and a piece of metal to lay the top of the rivet on.

Place the knuckle in place. Then put the knuckle rivet down through the truck and through the knuckle. Now turn the car upside down placing the top of the rivet on something hard. Now just take your hammer and tap on the bottom of the rivet until it begins to flange.

It is easier, but the plastic spring tab will break or bend and sooner or later you will be replacing it again. I replaced some of these type couplers with diecast knuckles, separate springs and rivet and no more issues.

quote:

Now just take your hammer at tap on the bottom of the rivet until it begins to flange.

Yup. You just don't want the rivet to be able to fall out. It should not be tight against the bottom of the coupler. If it is too tight, the knuckle may not be able to open.

I agree that the real spring is better, and I use those for replacements.  Point is, the plastic knuckle with the built-in spring is a lot easier for a novice to install, especially the first time.

Greg, your profile says you're in DC.  Call Engine House Hobbies in Gaithersburg.  They're a few blocks right off I-270 about exit 10.  They have a qualified repairman on duty.  Great place.

I guess that I should mention that the 3519 car must have 560 series trucks, which used knuckles with built-in hinge pins (as I mentioned earlier). These are commonly found with a missing or broken knuckle, as Greg has.

If the car is an operator piece, I certainly would install a plastic knuckle, with a spring and rivet. This arrangement is much more sturdy than the 560 series knuckle.

But, if the car is a collector grade piece, I'd put in an original style 560 series knuckle, which has been reproduced. I purchased a couple of reproductions in order to give them a try. They seem to work as well as the originals.

Here is the Lionel factory service manual page on these trucks.

Thanks for all of your helpful comments, folks!  I purchased some parts at a train meet last week and was able to fix it!  It works like a charm now!....now to post my next question.....lol

Happy to hear your freight car has been successfully repaired. You should feel pretty good about your accomplishment.

We are here waiting

Easy rivet setter for knuckle repairs is a General Tools spring-loaded center punch that any well stocked home improvement store carries. Back up the knuckle head on any metal surface.