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Remember that nice, shiny new smoke unit from Olsen's Toy Trains I put in my 2025 during its recent restoration? 

 

Well, the cussed little thing conked out after an hour or so of operation.  After trying various things such as letting the engine sit  overnight and letting it sit in neutral with full power on for an hour or so to burn off any excess fluid, I sighed and dismantled the loco. 

 

To my chagrin, I discovered that the cement holding the plastic cap on had loosened, and the cap was floating free.   Since this particular design calls for the resistor to have a friction fit ground against the body of the smoke unit, it stopped working. 

 

After some mulling over and foul language, I decided that an external ground was called for.  So, I pried the ground out of the cap and folded it over the outside of the smoke unit. 

 

It was at this point I discovered that the Brain Trust at Lionel had, for some obscure reason, seen fit to mold yon smoke unit out of Cerroflex or some other low-temp alloy:

 

Oh, well.  At least it's grounded now. 

 

Helpful hint:  Don't wait until the locomotive is mostly reassembled before noticing you forgot to put on the smokestack gasket.   It's a darned good thing I love model railroading, else my workshop windows would, no doubt, have several locomotive-shaped holes in their panes. 

 

Side note:  Since I'm the paranoid cautious type, I also picked up a rebuild kit for the original pellet-based smoke unit, and that's been overhauled and is ready for action just in case:

 

If I DO wind up installing this one, I think I'll just run a jumper wire to the frame.  ;-)

 

Mitch

 

Last edited by M. Mitchell Marmel
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Get the original type heater element, metal smoke cover and liner. The metal cover will help ground the element. You can then use both the pills and/or liquid smoke in this setup. The element will last longer than the one in the liquid conversion kit also. If you use the conversion kit, you need to run a wire to ground from the element itself.

 

Larry

Originally Posted by TrainLarry:

Get the original type heater element, metal smoke cover and liner. The metal cover will help ground the element. You can then use both the pills and/or liquid smoke in this setup. The element will last longer than the one in the liquid conversion kit also. If you use the conversion kit, you need to run a wire to ground from the element itself.

Good suggestion!  Do you have a source for these components?

 

Mitch

The main problem with the pill-to-liquid conversions is you MUST keep smoke fluid in the unit, or figure a way to add a switch to turn it off when not wanted. The evaporative action of the fluid as it turns to smoke, in addition to the air flow through the unit, actually helps cool the heating element. No fluid, no evaporative cooling, and you get a cherry red heating element that either melts the cover or burns out. The pill units don't get as hot, so running them 'dry' doesn't hurt anything.

 

Also, be aware there are actually two different pill type heating elements. The early units used the 671-169, which is slightly smaller than the later 671-225. In some early units you have to file down the sides of the 671-225 to make it fit if you don't have a 671-169.

 

 

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OGR Publishing, Inc., 1310 Eastside Centre Ct, Ste 6, Mountain Home, AR 72653
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