CLW drive in an All Nation F7

No - you use the tower on one truck, just like the All Nation, and connect the trucks with a driveshaft and two U-joints.  I think P&D sells equivalent parts.

The CLW is, in my opinion, a better gearbox, but you need to drill the rivets out, and lubricate the gears.  The All Nation gears are ok, except for the most recent ones, which were assembled by a kid that had not been properly trained.  They rapidly fall apart, and eat their gears.  They can be fixed, but it takes special tools and really strong soldering flux.

I will have to pick up some small machine screws and nuts so I can take apart those gear boxes to lubricate the gears.  By "inline", I ment how the drive line is set up in the CLW dive with the motor shaft directly inline with the axle gear boxes.  This makes for some very short flex shafts between the motor and the inboard axle on each truck, restricting how tight the truck can turn without excessive noise or binding.  I figured this was a much higher quality drive over the factory set up, espicaly the sprung and equilized trucks.   Mike

The springing does not much.  And I suspect you are asking for trouble with such short drive shafts.  U joints are not designed for large angles.  You will have less friction and noise with the tower setup.

There are folks who say that springing wheels accomplishes a great deal.  I am not one of them - I do not bother springing my steam until it hits five axles, or four axles and 80" drivers.  Some are delighted when they see those wheels go up and down on uneven track.  Try as hard as I can, I cannot see such movement.  I have horrible track, and superelevation.

The tower set up is better, I do agree with that.  But keep in mind this was an early drive system, and large radius curves was the norm.  With the whole shell of this diesel being diecast, along with extra weight the previous owner installed, this engine does "ride" on the springs very nicely. Mike

The CLW drive would be quieter probably.    A good running AN drive is not that bad really.   I have a few and they run fine.  

The drive systems sold by P&D hobbies based on the original Weaver system is very similar in design.   The gear boxes are real close.   This system does use a tower and mount the motor up in the body.

As for your question about the CLW being an upgrade, I think yes to some extent.   They are contemporary drives and both had proponents.   If you have 2 or more units you want to run together, it is easiest if you have the same drive in all units.

I would not replace an All Nation drive system incorporating the skewed gears with a CLW drive system.  Both are good but the AN will last the average modeler forever.  THE BSME has a set of Atwater (original AN) F-3 that have been running since the late 1940s with just the motor brushes replaced about 30 years ago.  That's pretty good I think. Just my opinion.

Joe Foehrkolb

I think Mike had made up his mind before he asked.  Mike - go for it, if it is what you want.  I wouldn't use that setup on a long Diesel.

And Joe is right - the A-N gearboxes were the standard for many decades.

I was asking as that is what came in this engine when I bought it.  Its not a decision whether to or not to install it.  Mike

In that case, just run it and smile.

If you decide to lubricate, the rivets can be removed by mounting one sharp #43 drill in a vise and another in your drill press.  Rest the rivet on the stationary drill and carefully bring the rotating drill on to theother side of the rivet.  Presto.

then get some 2-56 x maybe 1/4" cap screws from Micro Fasteners and some hex nuts.  A ball driver will make assembly easier - they have them too.

Smith always maintained that his parts were self-lubricating.  May be - I have never seen one worn out.

I found a nice write up about him over on the O scale king's website when he was inducted into the hall of fame. Supposedly his gears/boxes were self lubricating using a patented plastic.  I should have it all back together tonight as I wanted to lubricate the motor bearings and check it over. Seems like a nice design, only down side like I was saying is the short drive shafts making large radius curves a requirement.   Mike

Artfull dodger you won't find a better drive than the Central Loco silent and long lasting. i never lubed mine and i have had some for over 30 years. all-nation were long lasting as well but the one's with the sintered wheels sparked a lot.

I figured this would be a beast of an engine, if the diecast shell wasn't heavy enough, he added 4 thick lead strips to the roof just above the big open frame motor. I am guessing she will need 6-8 foot curves as 24" radius(4foot dia) is to tight for the short drive shafts.  The paint job looks almost professional other than the ancient thicker decal film being visable. I even got the original box for it.  As to whether I keep it long term, that is yet to be determined. I do know where there is either an A-N or GMC diecast NW-2 that is nicely painted for C&O for sale down at a shop in Indianapolis.  Mike