CLW pedestal tender tracks

Ed, they appear to look like Keisel tender trucks, but with a longer wheelbase?

I cannot get enough detail out of the photo to tell. Are the CLW trucks you're looking for sprung?

Ed - the CLW pedestal/drop equalized trucks were undersize.  I did some Dolphin sideframes for Woody, and maybe we could have a foundry somewhere cast a few more.  

But your question: Lou is still quietly in business.  I can check for you.  And if you really get desperate, I am the proud owner of way, way too many H10s, so we could rob a set of trucks off one of them.

If they’re the same trucks as the H10, then Fran Pfeil may have what you’re looking for. He has an inventory of parts from that project 

I have a pair from my CLW H10 project. If your still interested Ed, send me an email.

Bob

Thanks all for the feedback.  Several forumites advised that Lou Houlemarde owns the CLW line and is selling parts.  Flanger (Bob) - I'm interested in your CLW trucks but I didn't see your email address in your profile.  Please email me with regard to availability of your CLW H10 trucks.  

The May 1948 Descriptive List of Locomotives and Tenders - The Pennsylvania Railroad and Long Island Railroad (1972 reprint by Owen Davies) lists two different design pedestal tender trucks having different wheelbases and wheel diameters.  The pedestal truck I'm looking for is a 2D-T3 5' 10" wheelbase truck with 36" diameter wheels.  One is shown fairly clearly in the photo below under a B6 tender.  My review of prototype photos show these trucks under tenders trailing A5, B6, C1, D16, E2, H6, H8, H9, and H10 locomotives.  I believe the only commercial source to date for a truck of this design is CLW.  While not sprung, or highly detailed, it is equalized and captures the look of the prototype.  If something better comes along I can always upgrade it.  Bob2 - the "Dolphin" style 2D-T4 tender truck is also listed as a pedestal design.  It has a longer 6'-5" wheelbase and  it has quite a different look.  Dolphin trucks were frequently seen  under E6 and G5 tenders, but also can be found under a few B6 and C1 tenders.  

Bob2 -

I sent you an email Ed.

Bob

Those are they.

Saginaw sand-cast them, and Bob must have made a rubber mold from the Saginaw master.  Automatic 4 1/2% shrink.

Should we make a new master someday?

I would like to see someone make a new master - I'd be early in line to purchase side frames or trucks made with the correct 2D-T3 wheel base finer detail.  The D16sb in the Pennsylvania State RR Museum has that style truck under its tender so gaining close up photos and measurements are possible (the PRRT&HS annual  meeting is in Strasburg May 15-18 this year).  Meanwhile I'll  use the CLW trucks.    

Finer detail is not my thing, but I can make masters almost as good as CLW. I think Stevenson has most of my masters.  If this becomes desirable, I will make a master in return for one complimentary set of castings.  I will post the Dolphin so you know the limits of my skill level.

There are better modelers out there - that guy who won all the prizes at the March Meet springs to mind (RIP).  A pro would have to charge real money, and a master of really fine detail might be 16 hours of skilled labor.

bob2 posted:

There are better modelers out there - that guy who won all the prizes at the March Meet springs to mind (RIP).  

 

You may be thinking of Harmon Monk. 

Harmon was good, but I am thinking of that guy who hand-built each and every part for his steamers.  Once I have made a part once, I never want to do it again.

Here is a trick: make exactly what you want out of plastic.  Easy.  Use plastic journal boxes from some beat-up passenger truck side frame.

Make it 5% too big.  Then the foundry can "lost-plastic" it, yielding a master, from which they make a rubber mold, and then they "lost wax" you however many.

Bob2 I believe  the guy you are thinking of is the late Capt Tom Mix who won all the time with his fantastic skills.

No - this guy was better.  A bit strange, as you might expect for a guy who spends every single waking hour on models.  I think I have a photo . . .

I'll think of his name in a bit.  Every piece of that Berk is hand carved from raw metal.

bob2 posted:

I'll think of his name in a bit.  Every piece of that Berk is hand carved from raw metal.

If we are thinking of the same guy, he passed away within the last year or so. If his model was in a contest, the best you would do is second place. Thinking it was Louis Bartig.

https://www.google.com/search?...mp;bih=653&dpr=1

Simon

bob2 posted:

Harmon was good, but I am thinking of that guy who hand-built each and every part for his steamers.  Once I have made a part once, I never want to do it again.

Here is a trick: make exactly what you want out of plastic.  Easy.  Use plastic journal boxes from some beat-up passenger truck side frame.

Make it 5% too big.  Then the foundry can "lost-plastic" it, yielding a master, from which they make a rubber mold, and then they "lost wax" you however many.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I've heard shrinkage from Lost plastic is minimal. Sand casting is where the 4-5% occurs.

Simon

Yes, Louis Bartig.

No - very little shrink in sand.  Very little shrink in any casting process, lost wax included.  The shrink is when you make the rubber mold.  That is over 4%.

We lose 1/2 of 1% in either lost plastic or sand.  That's just the metal shrinking as it cools.

There is very expensive mold material that does not shrink.  My dentist and fellow pilot made me some molds for a UP passenger truck - zero shrink.

Now that I think about it, I got the large shrinkage  number from when I read about Korean production and just as-sumed sand was the same. I have some pilots I would like reproduced, but I will have to  wait until I can get it done locally, because they are not leaving my sight. Too hard and expensive to come by to have them disappear in the mail or otherwise!

Simon

Find a dentist.  Get them inside a non-shrinking mold.  Remove and fill with wax.  Believe it or not, candle wax works.  Send the waxes to the foundry.  Presto.

I know this is an O gauge site guys.  But I'm lookin for a c1  0-8-0 brass tender ho for a LM&B from japan. Can anybody help?