code 125 tie plates

Are you referring to these?

 

http://www.shapeways.com/model...on30-tie-plates.html

 

Sounds like he hasn't seen his prints yet. 

 

Any reason why you are using 1/4" wide ties?

 

       Actually it's these:

http://www.shapeways.com/model...es-1200-o-scale.html

 

        Is 1/4" the wrong size for O scale?

 

               Geoff

Geoff:  1/4" corresponds to a 12" wide tie in O scale.  Prototype ties are usuallt 7" or 8" wide on the top. 

I believe that the tie plates that you are looking at were designed by Jim Lincoln.  I know Jim and he is a stickler for accuracy and prototype detail.  If these are Jim's I know that he scaled them from prototype plans and they will fit full size scale ties exactly. If you have full sized ties, I'm sure that you will not be disappointed.

 

TT

 

          thanks, I was thinking ties were about a foot square. I guess

    3/8" would be more appropriate.

Those look really good.  Looking forward to photos of your progress.

Jeoff If you are looking to do some prototype modeling which I get the idea that is what you want to do. Maybe you should slow down just a little bit Research what you are building before you get to far into it. There are a few companies out there that make pre-cut ties that are already scale size. Believe me they are worth every Dollar you pay for them. They the correct size right out of the bag not close like if you use normal fractional sized lumber. Hand laying track is one of the most rewarding parts of the hobby for me. But it will suck if you spend hours laying ten feet of track and when you get done it doesn't look right. Ask as many questions as you can. research the railroad you are modeling take a day trip and go make pictures of the track. Try to make sure you get a good start so you feel like you want to finish.

 

        Thanks Ken, I'll check into the pre-cut ties. Unfortunately, the branch 

   I'm modeling was abandoned in the early 1990's. I feel fairly confident that

   I can make the track look decent. The switches are the only thing I'm a 

   little intimidated by, especially since 2 will likely need to be curved. It'll

   be a slow process, but I'm glad I asked the question about the tie plates

   and avoided a big mistake with tie size. Thanks for all the feedback.

I will echo what Ken stated.  With the quality scale sized ties out there you can't go wrong.  It sounds as though you have seen what you wish to model in person, but if not I would suggest that as well if it's with in your schedule and such.  Are you going to model that line 100% or are you after just the basic "look" of it?  Best advise I have is to take it slow.  Hand laying for me is by far the most rewarding thing...why?  Because I am literally building my railroad...my way, and it looks like I want it to....it's awesome...switches are a challenge at first but after you do a few you will gain confidence and feel much better about attacking the curved turnouts you will need.  I am sure you will produce some fine track work. 

Jeoff...what does that mean exactly? The 3/8" part. I hope your not thinking ties of that size will be ok...because they will not be. Buy correctly size precut ties and switch ties from one of the quality suppliers and start off right.

 

Others have given you good advice. It is not a subject where one can stray to far off course and expect to get good results. Track has a certain look and size to it, and anything even slightly off with look like the proverbial "sore thumb". Better to ease into this artform gently and with a good understanding of what's correct than to waste your resources chasing what might look ok.

 

Bob

Jeoff

 

I highly recommend using the commercially available scale ties.  I like hand laying track and I started out with curved switches.  While I might not recommend that as a starter project it worked out well for me.  I was happy to use flex track and commercially available standard switches.  I hand laid because my brother needed a No. 8 curved for a project and I wanted to try making one.  It turned out well enough that my brother decided he only needed nine more to finish the project.  Watch out what you start!  

 

One of the reasons my curved switches turned out well was that I used Ross curved switches for the basic pattern.  You can modify the details to fit the rail you are working with but having the basic geometry established was a big help.  I have used Rossbed as the base for most of my switches.  I spike through the ties into the foam which makes it easy to build on the bench and then install the finished switch on the layout.

Jeoff,

Add these two publications to your library:

 

 

 

 

 

Matt

Kappler ties:  http://kapplerusa.com/y2k/p-o-ties.htm

 

 

 

       3/16's is what I meant to say, not 3/8's. Looking at the Kappler prices it

    almost looks cheaper to buy pre-cut ties than to buy wood strips from the

    hobby shop. Thanks for the link to Kappler's site and I'll check out those 

    books too. This layout will be small and not to much of a challenge to

    operate so I'd like it to look nice. Thanks,

 

                  Geoff

They are cheaper given the time you will invest in cutting the strips to length.

 

OTOH, if you are exceptionally genetically penurious, you might consider making 3 cut-off stops for your bandsaw, and spend a day running all of the scrap wood in your shop through he saw to get all 3 dimensions cut and be making your own ties. A certain amount of madness lies within that activity that may induce and/or require the consumption of mass quantities of pharmaceuticals............

Also note that the Kappler ties are cut from premium sugar pine...their low profile ties hold spikes very well.

 

Matt

The question not asked yet is how long of a run are going to do and what are YOU after?  Are you gonna go simple or crazy like a few guys and add every nut and bolt.  I cut my own ties.  I was not on drugs and I am still sane as we speak.  I ended up cutting about 19000 ties in a few days with my Powered chop saw.  And my ties were about 1 cent for 5 ties.  My ties also look weathered right from the saw.  Pre-cut ties are too pristine looking.  Even after people "weather" them.    What are your goals?

 

        Patrick, I'm planning a small layout to fit into a 9x12 spare bedroom. I've

    guesstimated it will require 55 feet of track with 5 switches planned. I'll 

    likely lean more towards the simple side of things not modeling every nut

    and bolt. I'm looking forward to weathering ties and I really like

    the idea of adding tie plates too. The switches may be time consuming for

    me and I may need to order one of the books mentioned above to help

    with them. 

         I have to ask where you get ties as the ones I've been cutting are 

     significantly more expensive.

    

These are Kappler ties, not the low profile.  Also tie plates from Right O' Way and code .148 steel rail. I'm not after all the bolt's....maybe nuts...  At any rate what Patrick said is correct about the ties...they will still look pristine.  The 2 ties at the far right of the first photos show some texture that I made my rolling a screw over it.  As Mwb posted above here is the link to Kappler....

http://www.kapplerusa.com/y2k/kp-main.htm

 

 

Have you made some sort of drawing yet?  What do you plan on using for sub-roadbed? What kind of equipment will you use?  What will your motive power be?   Will the track be modeled as well-maintained or needing work? What year will you be modeling?

9X12 will keep you limited to shorter rolling stock and loco(s) of course.     All these can factor in what you want YOUR railroad to represent.  The main reason I ask these questions is since you want to hand lay your track, once you do, its kinda permanent.  Planning will help avoid wasted time/money/frustration.  I'd hate to hear that you put a lot of time and effort into track building and decided to redo it or something. 

 

Everyone here can converge on one thing for sure...planning is the way to go.

Will this be permanent or modules?

 

Feel free to email me.

 

 

Kappler ties are fine but you might think about calling Lou Cross of Right-O-Way.  He also sells ties, as good as Kappler, for less money.  He has all the standard sizes.  He also sells rail, switch and rail parts, including tie plates.  All of his ties are also made with sugar pine.

 

Lou does not have a web site but will take orders over the phone.  His number is (559) 665-1001.

 

After saying all of that, he's on his way to Chicago right now so he won't be able to answer the phone.

 

Jay

Chris, I hate you. I have been trying to get a color on my ties that I like and haven't got it right yet. I guess I am going to have to spot you some gas money to come to Arkansas and stain my ties for me. Your track work is really coming along nicely. Ken

...and don't forget date nails for a few ties:

 

My photo-resist kit arrived and the results look promising. 

Now please pass the pharmaceuticals.

Matt

I grain my ties to give a little added character. Photo shows the look prior to painting the rails. Works for me.

 

Bob

LOL, thanks Ken.  I'm pluggin' away at it slow but steady.

 

Flanger that looks really good.

Bob,

How do you get that nice, sharp point on the frog?  A filing jig?  Freehand?

Thanks,

Matt

Good to know that there are other sources - there was a period when Kappler was unable to supply any ties.  That's what prompted me making my own.  And, I do agree btw that commercial ties are too perfect and polished.  Cutting your own adds all that surface texture and using several types of wood also adds a bit of varition in the staining coloration.

 

As for pharmaceuticals:"I hate to advocate weird chemicals, alcohol, violence or insanity to anyone…but they’ve always worked for me."

Here you go Matt.

 

Bob

 

http://www.handlaidtrack.com/5...48-Rail-p/pf-5-l.htm

Bob,

Thanks, I thought that might be a possibility.

I watched the FT video and the frog looks nice but how does it work for the points.  I'd like to be able to tweak the points for unnotched stock rails.  Can you post a photo of the very end of the points?

Thanks again,

Matt

Jay,

Please explain, in detail, the difference in the price of the ties.

Thanks,

Matt

Won't work for unnotched Matt, the points come out flat faced and obviously tuck nicely into the stock rail notch.

 

Bob

This is the look I'm after...there is a teeny-weeny notch in the rail head but nothing in the base.  If I remove material from the top of the FT point, it just might work.

  

 

 

Yes indeed that the ultimate appearence, the prototype! I wanted functional high reliability switches that also looked appealing, The stuff I use has given me that, but admit I am tempted to try making one the way your talking about. Ed Ruetling often spoke of his preference for building them this way and never notched his stock rails. The points from Lou Cross are cast this way which might help you. I also believe you could shave off the rail head without touching the base using those fixtures, but it would be awkward.

 

Bob

Matt,

 

I'll try to make it simple for you.  Lou charges less for the same size tie.

 

Jay

Thanks for the info Bob.  I recall the t/o article that Ed R. wrote in a past issue of O Scale Trains magazine.  He mentioned the ability to add a t/o anywhere w/o the need to notch the stock rails.  I'm still practicing on RoW code 83 rail with the intent to build the frog and points at the hobby bench (better lighting) then spike that assembly in place on the layout.  I'll post a photo when I'm successful.

Matt  

 

Chris,

Thanks for the detailed answer.

Awhile back I purchased Kappler ties from 1st Place Hobbies and their prices were very good.  I have been compiling another order but their website has been down and I'm not sure if it's due to the severe storms in the mid-west, the economy or if their prices were just too low. 

Northeastern Scale Lumber offers O scale ties but not in low profile.

Does Lou cut his own ties or are they Kappler ties?

Thanks again,

Matt

 

...and nice track handiwork...four spikes plus tie plates...whew!

 

 

 

 

I can answer that.  Lou cuts his own ties.  I've gone with him to buy the lumber (sugar pine), helped him load & unload it, cut and package it.

 

As a side note, there was a period of time, a few years ago, when sugar pine was in short supply.  We found a place located at the old mill in North Fork that had a decent supply.  If memory serves, he bought 200 board feet that day.  Since that time we've had no further issues.

 

Jay

 

        Thanks for the photos guys, it makes me want to get started. I'll likely

    go ahead and order some ties from Kappler.  I don't have a track gauge

    yet. Is one pretty much like another?

       Patrick, thanks for asking the questions, so far I'm planning an irregular

    oval to fit in the room (I'll try to sketch something to post in the next week

    or two), the railroad is being modeled after an abandoned UP branch so

    the ties will need a bit of weathering, code 125 track. The minimum radius

    I'm planning is 44" with the longest car to be 50'. I've been looking at

    the GP38-2 by Weaver as power. Looking at their site it appears I'll have

    to paint my own since they don't do a UP version.  I'm planning on going

    cheap on the roadbed using up some old hardboard I've had laying 

    around, shiny side down of course. 

 

            Geoff