Converting to MTH Realtrax

I think you'll be disappointed with Realtrax. Lots of different "eras". All have quirks and can be a major PITA to get to work right. Lots of connectivity problems, etc. Rails don't align properly, etc.

 

I recommend you go Fastrak if you want the plastic roadbed. If doing a permanent layout, go Gargraves with Ross switches or Tubular with Ross Switches. Avoid Realtrax IMO.

This won't be a permanent layout, and even the plastic roadbed is not a requirement.  I'd be happy with a tub full of old 3-rail if I could find it in decent condition...

Yes, you can use Lionel transformers with MTH Realtrax. Each piece of track has a place for a Realtrax power lock-on to which you attach your wires.

 

Just my opinion but I found Realtrax to be difficult to use, especially making good electrical connections. At one time years ago I had quite a bit of it and I've never used it again. 

Your local hobby store either near you or found on the forum likely has TONS of tubular 3 rail track sitting around, all brand new.

scottydl,

    RealTrax is not as friendly a build as FasTrack, however I have some I use as the inner most loop on my Christmas layouts.  What I found is this, once you build your RealTrax layout leave it up as long as possible, taking it up and down is what degrades RealTrax.  Mine works perfectly, have had it for many years now.  The 031 is great for running close inside loops next to FasTrack, however the RealTrax switches are problematic and if you run Tin Plate they do not accommodate Tin Plate 12 wheel tenders or big Tin Plate engines.  I am not trying to talk you out of it, however you should realize it does have its draw backs.  Transformers are not part of those draw backs however, you can use old ZW's & KW's with no problem.   Ask the seller if this particular RealTrax is the original solid SN or the later hollow stuff, mine is the old solid track, which works better.  Also remember if you have Lionel Magna-traction in some of your engines, the SN RealTrax eliminates the Magna-Traction in those engines and they tend to slip.  Nothing wrong with RealTrax as long as you know it's limitations.  The bulk of my layout is FasTrack, and with it you get Command Control switches & Magna-Traction, which RealTrax does not have.

PCRR/Dave 

Scottydl, when you ask questions like yours, you're going to get a lot of different answers/opinions, so here's mine...

 

If the RealTrax you're considering purchasing is the older, solid rail stuff, and you can buy it at a good price, I say go for it!!  Personally, I love it!

 

I've had nothing but RealTrax on my small basement layout for nearly 15 years now and have had zero problems...literally zero.  This includes two O-31 switches that have provided trouble-free operation that entire time.

 

Unless I missed it in your initial post, you didn't mention whether you were planning to use the track on a temporary (floor/carpet) basis, or on a more permanent layout.  My RealTrax is screwed to a Homasote-based platform, so I don't experience any of the issues claimed to be associated with regularly putting it together and taking it apart.

 

Plus it is very quiet, even with the built-in plastic roadbed...must be a combination of the the solid rails and the Homasote platform.

 

That all being said, if the track in question is the newer, hollow-rail RealTrax, then I would say pass on it and go with Lionel FasTrack as others have recommended.

My layout has over 220' of RealTrax.  I have had some of the track in place for approx. 12 years. 98% of the track is solid rail.  I do not recommend RealTrax.  One switch literally wore out and I have four that were out of gauge out of the box. 

I have some that I bought because it was cheap.  Used but serviceable (cheap).  If it's priced right and you can put it together and it's fairly clean, it'll work.  If sections have boogered ends and really dirty, pass, not worth the effort.

scottydl,

    Wabash has run his layout for a long time, read his post and understand why I say RealTrax has some draw backs you should definitely consider before purchasing a bunch of it.  If FasTrack made a true 031 for inside loops I would probably not have any RealTrax on my layout at all.

PCRR/Dave

Scottydl,

 

I second what joeyA says. The hollow rail is a poor followup to the solid rail track. I've used the older track for 13 years now with minimal issues. I would check all track for continuity before installing. I used a simple ohmmeter and if poor contact between the copper connector and the nickel silver track is found (open circuit) then the weld is poor and can be fixed with a small drill and solder. This is a precaution that will save a lot of grief.   Joe

As usual, GREAT advice from all of you and I am so glad I posted my question!  For now, I need something that is portable... we move trains (on relatively small layouts) around our house, from the living room, to the kiddos bedroom, and someday will be in the garage attic more permanently.  Realtrax may not be the best option for now, but I'll take a look at it and see if it's solid rail or hollow rail... then will decide.  The seller apparently has a bunch of tubular track also, so it won't be a total loss to check out everything and then decide.

Scottydl,

You stated you would be happy with a tub of tubular track in good condition. Menard's, who is one of our forum sponsors is making "New" O Gauge tubular track. I suggest you take a look at their website.

Realtrax is the devil.

Anyone here who is happily stating they have had no issues -- I am pretty certain -- have not taken it apart and put it back together regularly (for Xmas, and what-not).

I had a massive collection of Realtrax that I finally threw it all in a box and sold for pennies on that auction site.  (Maybe that is the same bucket of miserable track from South Hell that is being offered to you...).

I had bloody knuckles and bloody finger creases when assembling and disassembling Realtrax.   I hate it.  It is evil.

My bloody opinion.

- Timbo

I'll check out Menard's again.  Last time I was around here (a couple months ago) there was talk of Menard's track but it had not hit the website yet.

 

Is O-31 the "standard" curve measurement for most Lionel O-gauge that came in older sets?

I have a whole layout built with RealTrax and I like it. It looks soooo much better than Fast Track. It does have a couple things that bug me like the switch machines stick out too far to set up nested circles with the switch machines between the tracks and closing gaps in the track is like building a jigsaw puzzle without the picture. But it looks great and runs well too. And yes, they guys are correct when they say that setting it up and taking it apart degrades it. Its actually the setting up part that does it. it comes apart very easily

I like mine! If you follow directions on "how to assemble", it works fine and solid rail is the way to go. JMHO, Dave G. 

If it's a lot of track at a really good price, I say go for it.

 

I had the experience of restoring/reviving a 12 year old layout that had been in garage attic storage built with Real Trax.

 

I will say that it is the solid rail version. The rails can be cleaned up, we checked all of the connector contacts and put electrical cleaner/lube on them, checked each piece of track for the dreaded no connection factory error.

 

When all was said and done it came back reliably. I skipped the lock-on and soldered power feeds directly to the tracks.

 

The switches were the biggest disappointment. The small internal magnets that the motor connects to had adhesive failure from exposure to attic temperature for 12 years. One switch had the internal electrical failure.

 

I think you'll be good to get a large inventory of track. Once you learn the technique for connecting the pieces, it is easy to work with, except for the last piece to close a loop. No bloody hands. Hold the railheads at a V angle and fold the tops of the downward.

 

I'd say an average price of $2-$2.50 a piece would be a great deal to have a lot of track to play with.

Oh by the way, a 40-1011 mated to a 6-12040 gets from RealTrax to FasTrack. 2 of each piece would be needed.

 

I also solder a jumper wire to tie the two outside rails together on RealTrax where I connect a power feed.

 

I put electrical tape over the connector tabs to create an isolated outside rail for activation use or on the center rail to isolate a block or siding.

Besides Menard's, you may also want to checkout http://tinman3rail.com/ for tubular track.  They are also a sponsor here.