Midwest cork track bed is beveled.  Slicing the HD cork would not provide that convenience/look.

I would stay with the Midwest track bed.  Just MO.

BTW, you can get that 1/4" cork cheaper than at HD.  Look around on the web.  I'm using 1/4" cork (exactly like you're looking at) for scenery and sound control throughout my new layout.

RT, thanks for that info. I have some scrap pieces of mid west. I will ballast both sides to see how much difference the bevel edge makes..........Paul

Just MHO, mind you, but...

If buying Midwest roadbed pre-cut cork (less than a full box) is not convenient, I've gone the HD sheet cork route in a pinch myself.  If your track is on a curve, I'd still cut it into two narrow strips for flexibility in forming the curve.  But I'd skip the bevel edge.  If you ballast your track, you can create the beveled edge with a little more care in forming the edge ballast....not at all difficult with a soft bristle brush. 

Another inexpensive way to form the bevel....cheap caulk.  After square-edged cork is down, run a bead of cheap latex caulk along the edges, followed with a putty knife to dress the edge on a bevel.  Let it dry for a day or two, then ballast as usual.

FWIW, always....

KD

Here is a recent installation with the beveled edge cork. The two halves are slid under the switches/track, some places there is a hole in the cork, center of the switch.

I have to install cork for the switch motors.  A similar Atlas track installation.

I used this roll cork from Michaels Arts and Crafts. It's not as thick but you can cut any shape you want.

http://www.michaels.com/artmin...l#q=Cork&start=3

MIKE CT, I have done it that same way for many years. I have even gone further and completely filled in under switches. I think for me it is coming down to price and getting the most bang for the buck. Home Depot says ship to store free and they are less then two miles from me. DKDKRD, I took a scrap piece of Midwest and put ballast on both sides of the half strip. Comes out looking the same to me. And RSJB18, I definately want to stay with 1/4" thick cork. Thanks all.......Paul

Cork on the curves and foam core cut with bevel edge for tangent tracks. 

I paint it all before track....so ends up looking the same before ballast and can't see a difference after....but less $$$ 

AMCDave posted:

I paint it all before track....so ends up looking the same before ballast and can't see a difference after....but less $$$ 

Ditto Dave on that...

All of the cork was painted with cheap latex gray before the track was fastened down.  Looks fine for now.

Besides, I'm rather ambivalent about ballasting the Gargraves/Ross trackwork.  And, if I do someday, it'll be the last  thing I do....adjacent scenery all done beforehand.   AND, the ballast won't be glued down, either........gravity works well enough, and the loose ballast will make any subsequent layout changes easier.

Works for me, anyway.

KD

Beveling is easy and not a deal-breaker - but, speaking of breaking, I would be more concerned with how well your hardware store cork bends. Never used any; it may be just fine.

I don't ballast everything. I also get a grey color close to the ballast and paint the cork. Then I lay the ballast on each side. Glue it down and once dry lay down the track..... Paul

I would not try to reinvent the wheel and sick with Midwest Cork roadbed.  I have it under about 200 ft of Gargraves track & Ross Switches and it looks nice and suppresses the sound a bit. Gargraves #4 phillips head screws were used to hold everything in place.