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Maybe I'm the only one, but I can't stand working with CA (Crazy Glue, Super Glue, whatever).    It comes in those really leaky little tubes and no matter how careful I am, it gets everywhere but where I want it to go.    Does anyone else have this problem?  I swear, I could be holding the tube with 3' forceps and in a few seconds my fingers would be sticky.  In the meantime, the tube looks perfectly fine (no visible holes). 

 

I have decided never to use the stuff again and am working with a slow acting, less runny glue called E-6000.  Much better.

 

Anybody else had this experience?

 

George

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It does take some technique--and the really watery stuff is a nightmare. But, really, some form of CA is indispensable for certain jobs that involve "volume" work. You can work so much faster than with any of the alternatives that sometimes nothing else is really practical. And the accelerator sprays often take the place of tedious clamps and jigs. 


The toothpick trick is invaluable.

Cheers,

--Pete

Maybe if you guys used a decent dispenser of CA it would not be such a problem?

 

 

The tips I use are so fine that it actually takes a good bit of force to get medium viscosity to flow through the fine tip.  And, it's not a plastic that CA binds well to so whatever clogs that you get are from dried glue accumulating and it's not bound to the tip tightly - just flicks away.

Two things to be mentioned. Cyanoacralates are respiratory and eye irratants. You should acquire and read an MSDS on them.  There are several different thicknesses, which determine set time and usability. Note that Martin is using Zap-a-gap which is thicker. With the thin set I use a small brass wire and the method that Jim M mention above. It takes a very small amout of CA usually what clings to the small brass wire.     

Regarding the irritant factor for super glues, there is a glue from the Hot Stuff line called UFO from Satellite City. It is foam friendly, and more importantly, it doesn't irritate like regular super glues. They have thin and thick versions. I haven't used it in a while, but when I was building RC airplanes, the regular super glues bugged me, but the UFO glue worked for me and the airplanes.

 

User Friendly Odorless

 

Like Joe above, I use 5 min. epoxy a lot. There are faster versions as well.

 

Except for very limited applications, I've never had much luck with super glues. Often, the glue just doesn't seem to stick the parts together. And if the joint isn't a perfectly flush one, forget it.

 

Maybe I'm doing something wrong, but many others I've spoken with seem to share my experience. This includes a guy I know who works (and has for years) the paint and glue/adhesive area at a local hardware store. He says he's never had a lot of luck with it, either.

I also love CA glue!  But it is the medium 'gap filling' version.  It is much more forgiving because of its gap filling abilities.  Sticks just about everything together w/o glue failures, and has some (very limited) working time.  The regular thin stuff requires that the surfaces being glued are FLUSH, so I rarely use it.  Caution always to inhaling its fumes and its ability to glue fingers together and to projects.

Originally Posted by mwb:

Maybe if you guys used a decent dispenser of CA it would not be such a problem?

 

 

The tips I use are so fine that it actually takes a good bit of force to get medium viscosity to flow through the fine tip.  And, it's not a plastic that CA binds well to so whatever clogs that you get are from dried glue accumulating and it's not bound to the tip tightly - just flicks away.

Yea,
I second that camotion,
I don't use the thin CA on anything first of all. I have used the E-6000 and it's the only thing I'd use on the Ameri-Town buildings ,thick CA wouldn't even bond those things together.
The thick CA I Like is the Gorilla Glue brand (Lowes) and it has a pretty nice tip thats easy to control.
The Tips like mwb have are nice . If you have a heck of alot of gluing to do you can also use the syringes with the curved tip. after your done just put in a little finger nail polish and let it sit for a little bit it'll dissolve the CA and you'll be able to use it again.

David

Originally Posted by Mike CT:

 There are several different thicknesses, which determine set time and usability. Note that Martin is using Zap-a-gap which is thicker. 

Yes, it is Zap-a-Gap, but it is also Medium viscosity.  They make thin and thick, but I really rarely have the need of either of those 2.  The Medium is actually pretty thin stuff, but adequately splits the difference in properties so that I only need to buy 1 grade of CA.

 

I do, when needed, use a gel version that get from the Dollar store,  

 

One of the primary reasons that folks have failures is choosing the wrong CA or wrong adhesive (or solvent glue) for what they are trying to do,

I completely agree w/ Rich883, having switched entirely to Gorilla Glue gel, available in a small, convenient tube, as well as the more liquid (utilized sometimes) version in a small bottle. They both seem, to me, to be far more managebale and forgiving than others (w/ way less damage to brain cells, I've been told.) I will not go back to CrazyGlue.

Frank

P. S. Just about everything in this vignette has been affixed using Gorilla Glue gel exclusively: the feet; rear-end; chair legs; wheels; trim; shed roof/supports; exposed "joists;" piles of firewood; steps; banister; water tank; pipe (in mouth); chimney.

 

IMG_0453_x

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Last edited by Moonson
Originally Posted by TMack:

Frank, Does it foam up as much as the liquid.

OMG, no, I don't use that one at all - awful stuff - I have no idea what anyone could use that for in modeling since it makes such a swollen mess! Here's a photo of the ones I use....I get them at Home Depot at a pretty good price.

 

GorillaGlue

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Last edited by Moonson
Originally Posted by Moonson:
Originally Posted by TMack:

Frank, Does it foam up as much as the liquid.

OMG, no, I don't use that one at all - awful stuff - I have no idea what anyone could use that for in modeling since it makes such a swollen mess! Here's a photo of the ones I use....I get them at Home Depot at a pretty good price.

 

GorillaGlue

Well how is that any different than any other Ethyl Cyanoacrylate adhesive?

Well how is that any different than any other Ethyl Cyanoacrylate adhesive?


Right off the web page: "Gorilla Super Glue is formulated with tiny rubber particles for increased impact resistance."

 

So it flexes a bit as oposed to the the more rigid (brittle) regular CA?

 

Sounds a bit like what I get when I use a bit of Goo on one surface and regular CA on the other surface to make an exceptionally strong joint.

I use LocTite CA glue, it comes in a dispenser with a long snout and a cap that has a pin that automatically clears the tip.  I've been using the same bottle for months. I also have a bottle of the LocTite CA gel for jobs where the liquid is hard to use.

 

For plastics, LocTite has a two part plastics bonder, you put the "activator" on for 60 seconds, then use the glue and hold it for 30 seconds.  Works with virtually any plastic and gives a nice strong bond.

 

For larger repairs, my favorite product is JB-Weld, I keep both the 5 minute and 30 minute stuff on hand.  If I'm in a hurry, I can do it with the quick stuff, but for stronger bonds I use the regular JB-Weld.

Originally Posted by mwb:
Well how is that any different than any other Ethyl Cyanoacrylate adhesive?


Right off the web page: "Gorilla Super Glue is formulated with tiny rubber particles for increased impact resistance."

 

So it flexes a bit as oposed to the the more rigid (brittle) regular CA?

 

Sounds a bit like what I get when I use a bit of Goo on one surface and regular CA on the other surface to make an exceptionally strong joint.

Oh sorry I meant more on the health risks with the chemical.  Looks like any other Cyanoacrylate.

Originally Posted by TMack:

Oh sorry I meant more on the health risks with the chemical.  

Oh, I see.... 

 

Well, after 30+ years of being an active bench chemist, cyanoacrylates are not so far up on my list of concerns that I actively think about that concern.  So, apply the standard rules - don't get it on you, don't get it in you, and try to breath it (get it in you addendum).  Odds are good that you'll not have any worries.

Originally Posted by ADCX Rob:
Originally Posted by mwb:
...don't get it on you, don't get it in you, and try to breath it (get it in you addendum).  Odds are good that you'll not have any worries....

I keep CA handy in the shop to close up skin cuts quickly.  Works like a charm. 

 

I can't recommend doing this, though.  I may be slowly poisoning myself.

 

They make a very expensive, "sterile" version for the operating room for just such a use.

Greg

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