I have another question regarding the gorilla glue, please! I use Loctite #460, because in addition to being "low odor", it is a non-blooming (non-whitening) formula. If it accidentally gets on something clear (i.e., a storefront window), it doesn't glaze-over and turn milky white when it dries. How does the Gorilla glue do in that regard?
Like MWB says, use the right glue for the job at hand. Also, one has to understand how it works and apply it properly. When using the thin CA, I'll apply a drop at the inside corner of a structure. It will run down the seam and capillary action will wick it into the joint. If it doesn't reach the bottom, I'll apply another drop where it stopped. The key though, is to have a nice tight joint. Squaring up joints should be SOP for any kit. Preparation is paramount. It makes the difference between an OK model and one that shows true craftsmanship.
Acetone will remove any errant CA and epoxy. I always keep it handy when using these bonding agents.
Dennis
Excellent advice from a modeling master in our hobby. Thank you, Dennis, for the well-explained technique, which I have now adopted.
Frank
IIRC, CAs were developed for the purpose of applying to wounds.
I, like some here, such as "Breezinup", have never had any luck with these, and found their utility was inverse to their price for a tiny amount in a miniscule tube. I use 2 part epoxy and Tite-Bond carpenter's glue for metal and wood, and usually Testor's for styrene...
They are recommended for the Korber models, but I never had luck with them
there, either, although that carefull matching of corners, done with file and sanding
block, may apply.
Normally, I'll use CA when bonding dissimilar materials, resin or if I desire a quick bond.
Originally Posted by Mike CT:
Two things to be mentioned. Cyanoacralates are respiratory and eye irratants. You should acquire and read an MSDS on them. There are several different thicknesses, which determine set time and usability. Note that Martin is using Zap-a-gap which is thicker. With the thin set I use a small brass wire and the method that Jim M mention above. It takes a very small amout of CA usually what clings to the small brass wire.
Great story: I use a LOT of CA in building. When I first started, I was building the gazebo that's in the park at the Choo Choo Barn in my old "unventilated" workshop. It was late at night and my eyes started to water. Of course, I couldn't see what I was working on with watery eyes so I got closer to my work. My eyes watered more and by the time I was finished, late into the night or early morning, I was about 3 inches away from my work. I never realized that I kept making matters worse by getting closer and closer to the CA. I learned a very valuable lesson. I still use CA all the time. We sell tips for CA bottles, not quite as long as MWB has , but they are worth their weight in gold.
.....not quite as long as MWB has....
BTW, I looked up the tip size - OD is just over 0.5 mm; no info on ID...
I use Loctite Superglue control gel for pretty much everything. It give a tad longer time to adjust once it's down, and comes out in a nice think dollap.
I've seen it at Office Max, Ace, Walgreens's, ect for as much as $5 a tube, but at a local Menard's (Chicagoland) they sell it for $2.49. Best deal in town.
What is everybody talking about joining together?,
Wood,plastic?,or everything.
For All styrene and ABS by plastruc,I use Plastruc plastic weld and Bondene.
Bondene is supposed to join similar plastics together better than plastic weld,but I use Plastic weld almost all the time.
If Im joining together a 1/8 X 1/2 piece of styrene to another piece,I get it where I want it,and just run the brush over it,and can pick it up in 5 or so seconds
Is all this stuff you guy's are talking about for wood to wood,or wood to plastic?
I've got a couple of future project's in the back of my mind,and haven't figured out how i was going to join them together
FYI: Years ago CA glue was invented by Eastman Kodak chemists as a quick wound closing medium. Thats why it works so well to glue your fingers together.
