Skip to main content

Hello

I know this is a question that is asked a lot. I am planning a new layout finally moving from ho to o scale. I have a very limited budget and will be starting with a few starter sets and then plan to add some the the smaller lower priced legacy engines maybe 1 a year or so. I will be using a lot of dept 56 type buildings instead of going with more scale buildings. I am wanting a more toy like layout with animations and lots of lighted buildings.

My room specs are 16'x24' actual measurements 187 inches x 280 inches, I am redoing the door and it will be 36" door centered in one of the 187" walls and will open outward. I am working with designs for a C shaped walk in, possibly an E shape but it is looking to be too tight. I plan to go with gargraves flex track and ross switches. I like atlas track but the availability issues keep me from looking at it as an option.

Being new to o scale I am not sure what to use for curve radius, I know bigger is always better but when designing with O72 the layout looks more like a big circle. I am looking at O42/O54 or O54/O64. I am not sure what equipment I will be limited to with the O42.

I am wanting 2 loops on the main level and a single elevated line over part of the layout.

Original Post

Replies sorted oldest to newest

Hello and welcome to O Scale!

As you noted, bigger is always better, but O72 isn't always an option for us. O54 will allow you to run a good chunk of the Legacy roster Lionel has produced. You will not be able to run any of the big articulateds (Big Boy, Allegheny, etc) and the larger rigid frame engines (eg, 2-10-4) on O54, but most everything else will work fine, generally including scale 4-8-4's (eg, N&W J Class) and smaller (of course check the manufacturer website or the box to verify, some models are different). For O42, I can only recall the Shay's having O42 requirements, everything else I have seen has either been O36 and smaller or O54 or larger.

As an aside, I am inclined to believe that O72 could be made to work in a room of that size without just being a giant circle, but that depends on how much space you want to give to the layout, and I am not a track planning expert, so I won't say anything else about that specifically. Since you are coming from HO, I will make a note that 3-rail O scale's radius convention is a bit different from 2-rail O scale (and every other scale), in that the listed radius - eg, O72 - isn't actually the radius, but is the diameter of a circile of track, measured center rail-to-center rail. A plain circle of O72 has a radius of roughly 3', and would take up a little over 36' sqft of space. You may already be aware of this but I thought it still worth mentioning.

First, just a little correction to the previous post.  Read thru this forum and I'm sure you will find enough references to the fact that not every O gauge manufacturer measures radii or diameter from center-rail to center-rail.  Most are close, but if you mix manufacturer's track pieces, you may run into problems.

Second, I constantly find my self giving the same two pieces of advice:

1. Look through this forum and search the web for track layout plans that will approximate your space.  While I know this will be the newbies first instinct, you might be better served by first reading up on model railroad operations because how you choose to operate, and how realistic you choose to be, will have a dramatic impact on what you plan to build.

2. Acquire at least one piece of track planning software.  If you have access to a Windows computer, there are a number of recommendations including SCARM and AnyRail.  Both are free to try out by creating a layout with up to 100 pieces of track.  There is another one, XTrakCAD, but while it is completely free, I have found it a little more difficult to use.  Finally, there are the paid versions which I don't use so I'm unable to comment on their usefulness.  However, if your computer access is limited to Apple Macs, the track planning software you can use is much more limited (Rail Modeller Pro) unless you use another program that lets you run Windows programs on Macs.

Chuck

Thanks again for the info here is a first rough draft to fit the room it has 054 curve min. with easements on almost all curves the curves that do not have easements are 0 120 and 0 132. I used fastrack spacing of 6" between tracks throughout, and I have 4-4.5 inch from center rail to wall which can be increased a little if recommended.

This is just the lower or main level double main line. Still need to work in crossovers and reverse loops.

Attachments

Personally, I'd reduce the entry a bit and make at least the outside tracks O72.  I'd also consider a lift-bridge across that opening to allow a complete loop.  Trust me, you'll never regret making the curves larger!  Other than one minor industry siding set, nothing on my layout is less than O72.  This was learned from hard experience with previous attempts.

Here's a graphic for those that don't have AnyRail.

o scale room design 1 2021

Attachments

Images (1)
  • o scale room design 1 2021
Last edited by gunrunnerjohn

Hi Keith, you have a nice space & I recommend you take advantage of it. It’s been mentioned multiple times here and elsewhere, keep your minimum radius to 072 & NO duckunders!!! You will not regret these 2 suggestions. I built my layout when I was 40 & now at 65, my back & legs hate the duckunders! Thankfully I was smart enough to keep my minimum to 072 & 081. My outer radius is 0120. Guaranteed, everything you run will just look more realistic.

One thing you could look into is hiding your curved sections. I am going to use 0-72 and 0-81 curves for the ends of my layout to turn the train around and I will put most of it under a mountain. The visible portions of curves will be 0-90 and above except for one section where I couldn't avoid it. This should help ease that fake looking over hang situation that you see with longer locomotives. There are videos out there showing Big Boy over hanging a lot like our models do. So it isn't entirely unrealistic. It looks as goofy in real life as it does on our models.

You'll also increase the size of the layout if parts of the curves are hidden. Particularly if you can place buildings over the curve, between the mountains and hide the tracks that are running them through the building. I'm employing this method to hide one of my curves completely. You might also look at elevating a curve and making it come out elsewhere. That's one of my favorite parts of HO. You see trains enter a tunnel and they drop under the table, only to come out on the other side of the layout. Or they will be go under the layout and go through a reversing loop so that they come out through the same tunnel they went in. I think it's a clever way to create the illusion of a bigger layout. Hope that made sense.

Side note: The Atlas shortage has crept up again but only in the form of being stuck at the dock from what I have been told. The track is being produced but transport has become tricky.

The thing I get caught up in with O scale is I like the "Display" type layout I like the idea of several trains running and just playing with trains. My HO layout has 24" and 26"radius with #5 turnouts, I limit myself to small equipment on the ho layout not so much for looks but for running reliability.

I am working on drawing the layout with the main lines being 072 min and lift out bridge across the doorway. I am working on the upper loop with it being 054 and 072, not sure which looks better for now. I like the way the design is coming together but it will require access hatches . I like the flow of this one but it has a lot of wide benchwork and some switches that or not in ideal placement.

Attachments

Images (1)
  • o scale v3.3

Add Reply

Post
The Track Planning and Layout Design Forum is sponsored by

AN OGR FORUM CHARTER SPONSOR

OGR Publishing, Inc., 1310 Eastside Centre Ct, Ste 6, Mountain Home, AR 72653
800-980-OGRR (6477)
www.ogaugerr.com

×
×
×
×
Link copied to your clipboard.
×
×