Custom Halloween o scale canisters; spray paint question

My Local hobby shop suggested a gloss spray paint, then lettering, then a flat finish. My neighbor who does the vinyl printing just said use flat because the letters stick to anything, even wood and metal. I tried gloss and did not like it. Even after spraying a gondola with gloss, 3 days letter in non humid weather (below 60 percent humidity) it was still tacky and smudgy to fingerprints. So i am sticking with flat. Does anyone have recommendations / suggestions on gloss. Vs flat before applying decals/lettering. I don't think it is necessary to apply a Clear finish to these halloween items but guess I could try?

First off, let me say, your vinyl lettering looks good and I cannot see any visible lines in your photos. The color match (unless your vinyl lettering was on a clear stock) is also very good.

I've done a great deal of repainting over the years, using spray cans. Some brands take longer to dry (Rustoleum, comes to mind) than others. Then, even within the same brand, some colors can take longer to dry than others. I know that doesn't make sense, but I've had it happen.

When using decals, it is best to use gloss finish. Decals set much better on gloss, then to flat coat when finished. I've done some experimenting with printed stickers and using high gloss paper, and still use a gloss paint.

I used to exclusively use Testors Dull Cote, but have found it yellows over time. For a scale purist doing weathering, that might be a desire effect, but for me it was not. So I have switched to Krylon Max colors, available at WalMart. Their clear coatings are advertised as non-yellowing and thus far, I agree.

Before you apply any paint or clear coat, you want to be sure the item is truly clean. I will still wash even a brand new car, especially if it is unpainted as there could still be residue from the injection molding process.

There can also be some variables with how the car was made. The Lionel 16258 unpainted Lehigh Valley box car is a great example. They used some different plastic pellet color with this car, because when I gloss coated the car to prepare for additional decaling, I got a very undesirable effect... the only car for me this has happened with.

You also want to do a light versus heavy spray of a clear coat, or any paint. The thicker the coating, the longer the drying/hardening time, and the greater the risk of paint runs. Just because some thing you've done is "dry to touch" doesn't mean it is ready for decaling. You want to give it 24-hours at the minimum and preferably 48-72 hours to make sure the paint is fully cured.

But I am also curious as to why you wanted to gloss spray the gondola (assuming it's the PRR one in the photo)? The only time I do that, is when I am planning on either adding decals to the car or masking off part of the car to add an additional color - like do the roof of a box car to reflect being unpainted metal. If you were looking for a sheen on the car for protection or visual appearances, there are other things you could use, like Lemon Pledge or Interior Armor-All.

Good luck with your projects.

Thanks for the input.  I first used Testor spray too but switched over to Krylon. I like Krylon flat, it is cheaper, drys quicker and looks better than Testors in my opinion.  I didn't spray the Pennsylvania gondola, I stripped a Black gondola, sprayed it black gloss with Testors. I think I will sand it again with 600 sandpaper and put a coat or 2 of black flat Krylon on it.  I  intend to have Halloween themed vinyl letters on this black gondola as well.  The already black gondola worked well because I didnt have to spray the bottom, sides, or the inlay.