DCS virgin here...

The Wabash AA PS3 lights up, starts up, horn & bell, but won't move.

PS-2 require a good battery to leave neutral. Battery test.... power up with sound and then kill the track power,. sounds should carry on for at least 6 or 7 seconds.

Did the breaker let go on the power supply or did you blow a internal fuse inside the tiu?

Gregg posted:

The Wabash AA PS3 lights up, starts up, horn & bell, but won't move.

PS-2 require a good battery to leave neutral. Battery test.... power up with sound and then kill the track power,. sounds should carry on for at least 6 or 7 seconds.

Did the breaker let go on the power supply or did you blow a internal fuse inside the tiu?

 

 

 

Hi Gregg...

The AA unit is PS3, no battery. I let it sit on the track for quite a while. I haven't opened up the TIU yet, but I'm hoping that's the case and not a fried TIU.

I unhooked my lock-on & clipped it to another loop. The loop had a dead short, and now the TIU won't work, (no LED).

If you aren't using the Aux. Power port, then the TIU isn't getting power for itself and there shouldn't be any power coming out of Fixed Channel #1. Further, there will be no DCS control at all on any channel.

One of two things is causing the TIU's red LED not to light up:

• The circuit breaker on the "MTH transformer" powering Fixed Channel #1 has tripped.
• The TIU has a blown fuse on Fixed Channel #1.

Note that if you don't have a good circuit breaker on any channel input transformer, you should always use an external fuse on that TIU channel input, in the Hot wire.

So I tried to run the engines in conventional- The PS3 daylight worked fine. The Wabash AA PS3 lights up, starts up, horn & bell, but won't move.

Has the Wabash ever run in conventional mode? If not, it may well be locked in neutral and would require a transformer reset to sort it out. A number of PS3 engines have been known to come from the factory in this state. Page 173 of The DCS Companion 3rd Edition has the instructions for doing this reset using a transformer connected directly to the tracks :

Ensure that the DCS engine is on a powered track and then press the horn button once followed by pressing the bell button 5 times. Each press should be 1/2 second in duration with 1/2 second pauses between button presses. If the reset is successful, the DCS engine will respond with two short blasts of its horn or whistle. The timing of button presses is important and it may take several attempts before the reset is successful.

This and a whole lot more is all in “The DCS Companion 3rd Edition!" This book is available from many fine OGR advertisers and forum sponsors, or as an eBook or a printed book at OGR’s web store!

You did not unhook the Lock on and reconnect while powered did you?  Try a conventional Reset on the AA.  Remove all outputs and power Fix1 input.  Does the LED come on and flash once.  G

The reset of the engine worked. Now I gotta find some tiny screw drivers and maybe a set of cheaters to open up the TIU...

Now I gotta find some tiny screw drivers and maybe a set of cheaters to open up the TIU...

The required screwdriver is a standard #2 (I believe) Phillips-head and the cheaters (reading glasses) are available in several diopter ratings from almost any "dollar store" for the price of - you guessed it - $1.00.