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Snipping the white wire will just make it a manual switch.

To disable the non-derailing, you will need to remove the bottom plate of the switch and cut the metal banding/bus/strap  going to each of the two  trigger/trip rails between each rail and the solder connection to each solenoid(see pic below) so the binding posts still work for the controller. Leaving the white common wire(and other white wires) intact will retain the electric/remote control feature(from the controller).

O-42 bottom

You can solder jumpers over the cuts if you want to restore the operation later.

 

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  • O-42 bottom

Before you do much else, you might want to simply disconnect the controller and run things manually for a while. If the buzzing and shorts go away, then the problem may be in the controller, not the switch. If the problem continues after disconnecting the controller, then the other two suggestions might be what you want to do next. If you do end up opening the switch, I would certainly take a look around and see if there's a stray wire or piece of metal that snuck in there, or perhaps a manufacturing defect causing the problem (compare what you see to Rob's picture.) Better to fix than modify, IMHO. Good luck!

RSJB18 posted:

I thought they were just noisy. I have 5121's & 22's. Thought the noise was the current going through the solenoid.

That is exactly what it is, and how they are designed to work.

FutureRail Productions posted:

Throw it against a wall. Nah, just kidding. Try cleaning it out. There might be some debris or something causing it to buzz. Could be a short. Does it operate properly with the buzzing? 

The buzzing is an indication the coils are getting current as designed.

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