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I have a utility room door that I need to span across ~ 36", and have been reading Jim Barrett's articles on his home layout where he built hinged sections. Before I proceed to this project - and am not confident of my skills as-is - I want to see if there's anyone who makes lift up or down bridges. It has to be sturdy and not just cosmetic as it will be spanning the utility room and workshop, thus getting heavy use.

Thanks.

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Paul,

 

I made three lift up gates, two double track and one single track, using a 3/4 inch pine boards of two different widths for the double and single track lift up gates and two top mounted strap hinges to pivot the gate upward slightly over 90 degrees to stay open. 

 

One hinge leaf of each pair of hinges is mounted to the lift gate the other other leaf to the stationary train board. The non-hinged board end bearss on a 1" by 2" wood strip, the 2" dimension is vertical. The stationary tracks either side of the lift gate and the track mounted on the lift gate must be in alignment and level also allow a maximum of 1/16 inch gap per end or 1/8 inch when the wood is cut for the lift gate, if the open width is 36 inches between the stationary sides cut the lift gate 35-7/8 inches long.

 

Once the tracks, stationary and lift gate mounted, are level and in alignment mount the 1" by 2" wood strip to the stationary benchwork opposite the hinged side and below the free end of the lift gate with wood screws. Mount the track to the lift up gate and four 1/2 inch thick by 2 inch long wook strips for mounting hinge leafs on the lift gate and stationary framework, mount each hinge to their respective wood blocks, the hinge pins should be located over the 1/16 inch gap between the lift gate and stationary framework. Secure the hinges to the lift gate and stationary framework, lift upward to open position, check for binding and track interference on lift gate track. 

 

Next drill a 3/16 inch or 1/4 inch hole through the lif gate board adjacent to one of the outsge common rails this is for routing the wire leads that are soldered to the common outside rails and the hot center rail. I used 18 gauge solid insulated wire 6 inches long for these leads, one end of each wire was soldered to one rail the opposite stripped end was butt connected to 16 gauge stranded wire approximately 18 inches long. The free ends of these wires were routed through a 1/4 inch drilled hole in the stationary framework below the hinged connection. Flexible standed wire will basically fold up when the gate is closed and unfold when the gate is open to over 90 drgrees. The 18 gauge common wires were soldered to the 12 gauge buss wire and the 18 gauge hot wire was soldered to 12,14, or 16 gauge wires routed to powering toggle switches.

 

If you allow enough width outside of the hinge leafs on the lift board, you can add vertical griders made out of basswood and disguise the lift gate as a girder bridge.

 

Regards,'

 

John 

Last edited by John Ochab

You need to checkout Susan Deat's access bridges. 

 

http://www.slsprr.net/features/bridges1.htm

 

She has several including an Atlas truss bridge.  The Atlas truss bridge is only 40" long.  They make other styles and lengths.  Atlas track will mate with both Ross and Gargraves. 

 

It doesn't have to be a bridge.  Take a close look at Dewey's and Roger's access "bridges". 

 

Jan

Originally Posted by chug:

Can anyone tell me what issue of OGR featured Jim Barrett's article on the lift bridge?

 

Eric Hofberg

TCA, LCCA

The Backshop Video #11 has a segment on the same subject.  The video was very well done, by the way.

In Run 171, OGR Digital Archive Volume 5, Jim Barrett describes how to build a hinged drop section.  This is what I used.

Roger,

 

Thank you for responding, but being a long time subscriber I'm sure that I must have the printed copy and I need to know what issue the article appears in; saves a whole lot of searching. I need this information for a friend.

 

Does anyone know what printed issue the article appears in?

 

Eric Hofberg

TCA, LCCA

Last edited by chug
I used Jim Barrett's article and video.
Works great, Just takes some time to gather the parts and hardware and assemble.
I was skeptical at first but am now a believer.
 
Works like a charm.
 
Buzz
 
 
 
Originally Posted by Paul Kallus:

I have a utility room door that I need to span across ~ 36", and have been reading Jim Barrett's articles on his home layout where he built hinged sections. Before I proceed to this project - and am not confident of my skills as-is - I want to see if there's anyone who makes lift up or down bridges. It has to be sturdy and not just cosmetic as it will be spanning the utility room and workshop, thus getting heavy use.

Thanks.

 

Like I said above, Run 171 issue.
 
Originally Posted by chug:

Roger,

 

Thank you for responding, but being a long time subscriber I'm sure that I must have the printed copy and I need to know what issue the article appears in; saves a whole lot of searching. I need this information for a friend.

 

Does anyone know what printed issue the article appears in?

 

Eric Hofberg

TCA, LCCA

 

Originally Posted by Paul Kallus:

The Atlas bridge may be too long - isn't it 48" and uses Atlas track? I am using Ross/Gargraves. I'd also be concerned about the bridge's integrity as it will be spanned up most of the time to gain access to the utility room workshop.

The Atlas track butts up to Gargraves track nicely.  The 40" long bridge is quite rigid with 4 steel rectangular bars inserted into each of the 4 plastic support beams that run the length of the bridge.  Hinges can be attached by drilling through the steel bars.  See drawing for custom hinges.  My bridge easily withstands visitor traffic when we grab the bridge by the base to move the bridge.

 

See the 2 3/4" wide steel bars that run the length of the Atlas single track bridge.

 

SngleTrkEndSml

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LIFT BRIDGE INFORMATION   

 The Lift bridge can be operated manually or motorized and are used to span isle way, water passages. The bridge can be made for single, double or three track. We also have a variety of types of bridges including, Warren Trust, Arch or Inverted Arch and Girder sides.

 The bridge is constructed of 3\4 plywood with a steel hinge with or without a motor. It is completed as a drop in unit which measures 10” L x 18” W x 4” H with the desire lenght of bridge. The bridge is pre wired and is ready to be hooked up to AC power. The bridge has automatic stops; they will need to be set at the correct up and down stopping position. We will also do the track if desired, however track does not come installed, because of the various kinds of track that might be wanted. This bridge will span isle ways, water ways from 24 to 40 inches and up to 45 inches on single track.    

 If we can further assist you in any of your layouts needs please feel free to call or E-mail me at  vmpeachey@vabb.com  

 

 

 Call or Email:
Model Railroad Custom Benchwork 8038 S. Blue Ridge Tpke. Rochelle,VA. 22738
Email: vmpeachey@gmail.com 
Ph. 540-308-0136 or 540-948-4948
 
He does first class work.
Last edited by NCT

Not sure what you want, other than to span the opening, nor if this works for you, but....a couple of years ago, I wanted to get into my layout. Since it is temporary for Christmas, I decided to use the rig shown below. Simple design - fit a section into the gap, add extended sides for support and to pivot, wood blocks on the other end to support it and go. Easy to wire and even put scenery on (but it must be fastened down for when you lift this up to vertical. See if the pictures show it better; I put one that shows the track gap where the bridge meets the main board, look for the pencil tip on the left edge of photo to scale the gap. Greg

 

Lift out gaps

Liftout Up

hingeup decorate how

lift chain fixed

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Images (4)
  • Lift out gaps
  • Liftout Up
  • hingeup decorate how
  • lift chain fixed

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