Dreyfuss 20-3045- how to identify if board was updated?

The picture is of a 16ohm speaker which is the 5-volt board. From the pictures it appears to still be the 5-volt board.

Burn this image into your head- that's what 5V PS2 looks like.

There is no guessing, there is no "I'm not sure", that is a 5V board.

and......

I have one with the 5V board, still runs fine.  I'm not changing it until that one goes up in smoke.  When it does, I have a few spare 5V boards that I can program up and replace it with.  Since the board is in the locomotive, it's a bit of a PITA to replace it with the PS32 Stacker, so I'll run the 5V boards as long as possible.

Thanks everyone for the info. Just wanted to make sure that it was the original 5v board. So when and if it goes I won't be so upset. 😂.

For now since it's running and operating I'll leave it alone. I guess since it's over 24 years old, has over 950 scale miles,and the price I paid for it, I won't be too upset if it goes.

Don't worry about it being a 5v board if it works fine.  Run it until it blows then put on a stacker or upgrade it.   I have 5v engines that work perfectly fine and have for years.  Leave it alone and enjoy it!

Hii  the picture Vernon Barry posted look and see if your capacitor is bulging top or bottom or both if bulging I would replalce it othewrwise just run until it dies!

alan

@Alan Mancus posted:

Hii  the picture Vernon Barry posted look and see if your capacitor is bulging top or bottom or both if bulging I would replalce it othewrwise just run until it dies!

alan

If it's the WINCAP brand, I replace it no matter what it looks like.

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

If it's the WINCAP brand, I replace it no matter what it looks like.

I've never replaced a cap. Is it too difficult? I've got basic soldering skills. And what would I replace it with? I did look at it and seems to have no issues bulging. The picture Vernon circled is my actual board. Again,thank you guys. I'm slowly learning.

Now I just need to find matching passenger cars. 😂

Well, basic soldering skills may not suffice for this job.

You have to spring the boards apart as much as possible, then trim the bottom of the cap leads, finally reach in with a long tip soldering iron to free the cap.  I heat the close end and rock the cap toward the center.  Then I heat the far end and rock the cap the other way.  After two or three cycles, you can free the cap.  Clear the holes and then replace it.

Upon some more research, I wanted to verify the following info for when and if this board goes. Sorry,I like to plan ahead. But, am I correct that if I purchase the MTH 50-1911 board and the correct speaker that it's a plug and play for this engine? Plus for me, I'd pay the extra 25 bucks for MTH to program the board for sound as I only run conventional (for now). I know it'll be a tight fit, but looks manageable.

Sorry for being a worry wart,but as a lot of things in life,I like to plan ahead and be prepared.

I haven't put the PS32 board in that particular locomotive, but as you say, it will be a pretty tight fit.  Also, since the connectors are arranged somewhat differently, you may have to lengthen a harness or two.  That requirement would depend on how the board eventually fits in there.  One fly in the ointment for board positioning is the totally different position of the heatsink.  That difference sometimes dictates that the board be oriented in a less than optimum position for the wiring harness.

I have done many of the Dreyfus.  The PS-32 5V stacker with speaker change and removing battery is way to go to retain all the engine light features.  Do not let someone upgrade it with a kit.  It is a tight fit and some wires get extended but it fits. G

@GGG posted:

I have done many of the Dreyfus.  The PS-32 5V stacker with speaker change and removing battery is way to go to retain all the engine light features.  Do not let someone upgrade it with a kit.  It is a tight fit and some wires get extended but it fits. G

I figured looking at mine that some wires might have to be stretched.  On the few other models of steamers I've put the PS32 board in the locomotive, several did have to have some wires extended, but I did manage to get them in there.

Thank you guys so much for your expertise. I feel a whole lot better knowing in case of failure.

@GGG posted:

I have done many of the Dreyfus.  The PS-32 5V stacker with speaker change and removing battery is way to go to retain all the engine light features.  Do not let someone upgrade it with a kit.  It is a tight fit and some wires get extended but it fits. G

Did you have to make/alter a mount for the board heatsink?

Yes.  Each model I repair I figure out the best method for mounting.  Take pictures of how I did it, and then have a ref for the next one.  You need to sink this one as deep into the chassis as possible and as far aft while avoid flywheel interference.  G