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I purchased a USPS Genesis Diesel Engine (20-2244-1) from eBay last year that I converted to a Dummy Engine for my working USPS 20-2244-1. The engine I bought from eBay had a fried circuit board. I had no desire to put in a new circuit board. I wanted a dummy for appearance purposes only.  When I got the engine, I stripped all electrical components out of it to include the pickup rollers on the underside of the chassis. Here is my problem, the Dummy engine when going through the turnouts sometimes activates them and I have a wreck. Is this problem a result of removing the pickup rollers. Is there a grounding issue? Should I reinstall the pickup rollers, so the engine is not throwing the switch?

Thank you.

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Lack of pickup rollers has nothing to do with throwing a switch. For that matter neither should the wheels being electrically connected.

This is not a 2rail/3rail switchable loco either (not that it should matter) so there is nothing special about the wheels.

I think you have a different problem and a bit of a placebo effect here thinking it's due to conversion to a dummy.

Again- that's not how switches detect anti-derailing function, and this being the dummy should just be following the direction of the lead engine, so no reason for the switch to change.

It sounds like this engine's circuit board was fried because it had a short circuit issue to begin with.  Are the wheelsets out of spec?  Assuming your using Lionel nonderailing type switches, perhaps a wheel set is bridging the center rail to the outside rail. Try pushing the engine alone on energized track, by hand, thru a switch and carefully observe the wheel's tracking through it. Good luck...

Thanks to everyone. I will try the dummy as last car. Switches are on a straight line with turnout to the right. I have not reversed direction and will try it. I have pushed by hand but did not know what to look for. I will do it again and check the wheel tracking. It is the same switch each time. What is pick the turnout/points. Switches are by MTH. Do not know how to determine if wheel sets are out of specs. The circuit board was fried when I got the engine.

@Williamm posted:

Thanks to everyone. I will try the dummy as last car. Switches are on a straight line with turnout to the right. I have not reversed direction and will try it. I have pushed by hand but did not know what to look for. I will do it again and check the wheel tracking. It is the same switch each time. What is pick the turnout/points. Switches are by MTH. Do not know how to determine if wheel sets are out of specs. The circuit board was fried when I got the engine.

Pick the points = the wheels actually catch the swiveling switch rails and force them to move.

Wheels out of spec  = one way is to measure the distance along axle between the wheels for an engine that you know functions ok, and then the one thats giving you problems.  Or..."The standard O scale wheel distance, also known as track gauge, is 1 1/4 inches (31.75mm) according to current NMRA standards; this means the distance between the rails on the track should be 1.25 inches."

Well folks, the "Dummy" is innocent! I did a thorough investigation of my Turnout and found out that it was the culprit. Here is what I found. As the Dummy engine approached the Point (Switch) Blades the Toe of the Blade rose above the Running Rail. Over time the Point Switch Blade came loose from the hold down ties in the base of Turnout. As the engine continued to move towards the Heel of the Blade, the Toe of the Blade got even higher. By the time the rear wheel set on the Dummy got to the Toe of the Blade it became an electrical problem.  An electrical short occurred and  the power to the track was shut down by the Z-4000 Transformer. The culprit here is the anchor device in the Turnout. It should keep the Blade from rising above the Stock Rail.  I put in a new Turnout and all is well! Now, the Point Switch Blades do not rise above the level of the Stock Rails. This power shut down only occurred when the Dummy engine moved thru the Turnout. Why?  It is because of the light weight of the Dummy. I took everything out of the inside of the engine body cover when I converted it to the Dummy which made it much lighter.  The heavier lead engine  prevented the Point (Switch) Blade from rising above the Stock Rail and did not cause a power shut down. I ran other heavy diesels and steam engines thru the defective Turnout and no electrical problem occurred. So, thanks to everyone who helped me with this problem.  Your information got me thinking outside the box. I began this repair project convinced it was a "pickup roller" problem! I was so wrong. I could not have done this analysis and repair on my own. I would still be trying to fix the problem through the pickup rollers. Thank you all for your input that got me thinking in a broader sense. Also, before this happened I did not know the names of all the Turnout parts. I do now! I went to Google and got a diagram, listing the names of all Track Parts and Turnout Parts. Is this a great hobby or what!!

Harry

Thanks everyone. Some great ideas. On the weight issue of the Dummy(I love this RR term) I am going to put the two motors back in without the drive shaft. That will give it the weight it needs. Of course, the new turnout solved the problem with this old Turnout. Thanks Bob.  On the photo recommendation I will include in the future as soon as I figure out how to attach one in the Forum. Thanks Don. My Turnouts are MTH. No help there. Ross will be my go-to Turnout in the future. Thanks Gunrunner.

Harry

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