I've had some trouble getting consistently precise coupler centering needed for switching operations with MTH switchers (and other mfrs) that use the vertical "T" type centering shaft with spring, washer and circlip retainer. I've developed a pretty simple, reversible fix for this problem and would like to share it.
First, you will need to salvage the dip tubes from various spray cleaner bottles that you and/or your significant other are otherwise going to discard. You will need several different tube ID's to find a snug fit over the OD of the ends of the "T" on your particular centering shaft. The photos and videos below show how this was done with my new MTH RS1.
First, here's a photo of one end of the centering shaft "T" on the truck before modification:
Note the space between the slightly oval end of the centering shaft "T" and the truck frame that is responsible for the coupler "slop."
And here's a video showing the coupler "slop" before modification:
Now, here's a photo showing a 2mm section of tube slipped over the end of the "T" that nicely fills the space shown in the first photo above:
Test fit the uncut tube to ensure a snug fit before cutting the 2mm section. A small drop of white glue was applied on the end of the "T" to further secure the tube section in place while still preserving removability, if desired. This procedure was repeated on the other side of the truck.
And here's a video showing the great improvement in precision of the coupler centering action:
I actually did the rear truck first to use it for the "after modification" illustrations and used the front truck for the "before modification" illustrations. As alluded to above, this "fix" is applicable to nearly any manufacturer's locomotive that uses this type of coupler mount. I hope this helps those of you that might be having this coupler centering problem.