ERR install in K Line scale mikado

Its as easy as it gets. The board drops in without modifying anything. You just have to solder one wire to serial data out on the R2LC (pin 24). The manual shows you where and how to make that connection.

Pete

As Norton states, it is simply procedure to do.  Down load the install manual if you have not, already, and follow clear instructions.  I installed my first on the K Line St Fe Berkshire in 2012.  Changed out the K Line/Lionel cruise board for the ERR CCM, along with newer can.  The ERR CCM controls cruise with back EMF from the motor, do not need the can with rpm reader circuit. Very happy with the improvement in slow speed control.  Have performed a couple more since then on other K Line engines, including the Rock Island E8s.  Excellent choice, IMHO.

Jesse   TCA

Thanks guys

Note that a handful of K-Line engines used their cruise board to generate the chuff, in that case you have to add a chuff switch.

well my easy conversion has a snag...

I triple checked wiring  I have correct wire for pin 24  I checked wiring against earlier conversion, 

but loco is motionless in conv and command

whistle blows on bell and other buttons could it be a bad CCm ? how do you test one

Are you sure the 4 pin black micro molex connector is fully inserted in the Cruise M? Thats about the only reason I can think of it wouldn't run in conventional.

That has track power in and motor out.

Pete

I have a bench tester for TMCC components, it tests the CC-M, DCDR, all the modular boards, as well as smoke regulators.

Is that the mother board you have? Is there a schematic for all you added to it for testing. Thought I’d make something like that. Might just use an engine schematic?

I didn't do a schematic of my tester, it was sort of assembled ad-hoc.  I recently added the ability to test smoke regulators as I have been seeing a lot of them lately.  At the lower right I have a high current bulb and connections for the smoke regulator.

I can test most of the TMCC components with it.  When something pops up that I need, I just wire it in.

I'm good on all my connections its odd that the whistle blows on many of the numbered buttons and on bell button

This board has 2 serial data wires on J4 connector I used pin 1 and soldered it to pin 24 on r2lc and left factory serial wires to tether as is   I didn't use wire on pin 2

The directions show it as data out to sound and as optional    Do they want serial data to flow thru ccm ?

How infrequently do you get bad boards?

Should I send it to Gunrunner John or back to ERR?

The whistle blowing on any button suggests it's in program mode and not run mode?  That will also preclude running.

Nothing you do with the serial data will prevent it from moving, it'll just take off like a rocket as a rule when you crack the throttle with no serial data.  Did you reconnect the DCDR and verify the locomotive still runs with that board?

gunrunnerjohn posted:

I didn't do a schematic of my tester, it was sort of assembled ad-hoc.  I recently added the ability to test smoke regulators as I have been seeing a lot of them lately.  At the lower right I have a high current bulb and connections for the smoke regulator.

I can test most of the TMCC components with it.  When something pops up that I need, I just wire it in.

That’ll help. I think I can copy. If you have time, what are the particulars on the switches? LEDs? In the front? I’m thinking about how to activate testing. Radio board and cab?

Chuck, we probably should start a new thread on this topic, we're hijacking this one.

I started said topic here: TMCC Tester Discussion.

Thanks. Going there.

And we have a winner in the guess what the inexperienced installer messed up on contest....

Gunrunner John gets the big hi five from me...

Dopey me wasn't paying attention to the run/program switch and spent the afternoon rechecking wires and such !!! With the switch in the run position all works properly!!!  

Man do I feel dumb...…. and also very grateful for all the smart people on this site!!

Thanks for all your help 

Sometimes even a blind squirrel finds an acorn, glad that was an easy one.    Trust me, you're not the only one that's done something equally dumb.

I am also upgrading a K-line scale Mikado.  Everything in the instructions looks simple.  Then reading this thread, I am getting confused.  In the cruise M instructions, the example of the K-line Allegheny had the following instructions:

“3) Locate the 10-pin connector in the kit, and plug this into the mating “J4” connector as identified below.”

”4) Locate the serial data line cluster wire nut, and attach the wire from “J4”, pin-1 to this cluster and replace the wire nut.”

The instructions doesn’t mention soldering a serial wire to the R2LC 24 pin for the K-Line.  The instructions do mention that step for the Lionel examples.

early in the manual, it made the following distinction between K-Line and Lionel:

“Finally, the serial data must be connected to the Cruise “M” for speed step and setting the configuration information. This connection does not exist on Lionel locos, but does exist in K-Line cruise locos.”

I was thinking I should follow the instructions and not solder the serial wire to the 24 pin, but this discussion appears to contradict those instructions. I would like any advise before I make a mistake.

The Cruise M has to be connected to serial data, otherwise it won't work. Not sure why its not specifically mentioned for other engines but PIn 1 J4 does indicate "Serial Data IN from R2LC" in the schematic. 

Pete

You can do either, if the K-Line has the serial data in a wire nut, you can find it there.  Of course, picking the wrong wire nut would be a very bad thing!

Personally, I usually just solder it to pin #24, I know that's serial data.

Perfect!  Thank you for the clarification.  I've installed cruise M before and had to solder. Just my research between the instruction manual and this forum confused me.

Now I have a new problem.  Installed and the cruise M and it works as expected.  But, my lights are now in reverse.  Headlight comes on in reverse, backup light comes on going forward.

One of the wires to the headlight came lose and I had to solder that when I reassembled.  Wouldn't think that would have caused this.

Dumb question, did you happen to have this configured in a lash-up?  If so, clear the lashup.

Not that I know of.  I bought it used.  Ran it before installing cruise m and lights worked properly 

Did you do a TMCC ID reset on it?  I am having a problem with anything reversing the lights. 

I've never heard of it, but the CC-M could have the motor running backwards.  If all else fails, just plug in the DCDR you removed and see if sanity returns.  You can normally do that without taking the CC-M out, just make sure to insulate the DCDR and set it on top for a test.

It might  be something with the programming.  Reprogrammed the engine to #1 and now the front light always stays on and reverse light only comes when going forward.

The engine does start in reverse when powered up.

Well, if it's starting in reverse, something is amiss!   Try clearing any lash-up and seeing if that helps.

1. Press TR on the remote
2. Press 00
3. Key in the engine ID ##
4. Press set

If it all went well, this gives you a whistle/horn and the lash-up is cleared.

That works with my CAB1L, for Legacy you can use the on-screen prompts.

If the lights are out of sync with the motor just reverse the motor leads. The engine may have had K-Line cruise in it at some time. For whatever reason K-Line Cruise starts the engine in reverse compared with a DCDR or Cruise M. 

Pete

Yikes, I think his issue may be he has a lash-up configured, that's the symptoms you'd see.

Looking at photo of his loco it looks like it has k-line speed control on motor, mine had just wires to motor no connector on top of motor. Could that be the backwards starting issue?

Dave (and Pete), you guys are correct, I didn't even look closely at the pictures.  The board that is connected is actually the K-Line cruise module! Duh!!  I should look closer before I speak.