Exploding jordan spreader?

To run the cab light and headlight, it is a constant voltage circuit.  You will need to take off the top to see what is wrong, but probably a blown cap.

Gene Anstine

Found blown capacitor and shorted bridge rectifier. Any one know the value of capacitor?  nothing left but paper and torn aluminium.

You ought to hear a really big one pop

   Not knowing what else is on the board, and where, I'd have to guess blindly at a good cap voltage being 35v-50v. But the more uf the longer it lights without power The larger the bridge rectifier in amps, the more likely it is to stay cool. 400-500uf would be a good start, 1000uf would likely last 30sec+ and have a slower, lingering fade to off.

A picture so we could see exactly what else is on the board might help.

So might posting in the MTH or electrical section of the forum.

the 6 volt head light bulb was blown as well as the 6 volt regulator . replaced bulb with led , replaced bad board with a resistor and diode to power head light. much brighter, and less parts.

All of this sounds a little too dangerous for me. MTH needs to find out what causes this. I can’t believe this is normal electronic behavior when properly engineered.

romiller49 posted:

All of this sounds a little too dangerous for me. MTH needs to find out what causes this. I can’t believe this is normal electronic behavior when properly engineered.

Sometimes, regulators or capacitors fail.  I've had parts fail on me for no reason right out of the reflow ovens.

There doesn't have to be a diabolical cause.

I think the filter capacitor dried out from age. Car was built around 2000. Also it was only rated at 35 v, with a bridge rectifier it would have around 25 volts across it at 18vac. Capacitor should have been a 50v one.  I have another MTH snow plow, I'am going to open it up and see if it has the same circuit in it.

I think the cap will be in the 100 to 220uf range, I'd use a 35V cap, I've used those for years in all my products. 

Even with LED, a cap in there to "keep alive" keeps the light from flickering.   You need the rectifier to run the cap on DC.     make sure + and - are properly connected on the cap, or they blow sooner.

romiller49 posted:

All of this sounds a little too dangerous for me. MTH needs to find out what causes this. I can’t believe this is normal electronic behavior when properly engineered.

Caps pop.    It used to be common decades ago. I haven't seen the design, but light drivers tend to be so simple it's more likely fault the component makers, not MTH.