Fastrack: Can I solder center rail on rail side??

Hi,

Yes, soldering works fine. I soldered several pieces on my old layout.  Did you try pinching the center rails with track pliers? Our club (TTOS SP) built modules and used Fastrack. After several years of use, we had similar issues. The pliers worked most of the time. I used a Weller 100 watt and it worked great. Just be careful that the plastic roadbed doesn't melt.

Bob

How large is the layout and how many pairs of feeders to you have going to the track?

If you lost power to 75% of the track. This joint may not be your only issue.

Soldering will work. A better method would be to strip a short piece of 16 or 18ga wire and solder to either side of the joint for a more reliable connection.

Wiring every piece together is not necessary if the pins are adjusted for continuity.

FWiW, I currently have a 10'x16' fastrack layout that's 15 years old and have never had a continuity issue.

Pins were adjusted as track was laid, and 14 ga feeders were soldered to the tabs underneath the track every 10' of track length.

I'm just using mine as an example. Wire size, feeders amount and method of attachment are all important to reliable track power.

You may want to make sure there aren't other (potential) issues that could cause continuity problems.

You are absolutely right, Rick, and I will do those things on my next table for sure. This table is 8x5. I tested continuity over most of the track and had no issues. Concurrently, as I have just used my fingers to squeeze the joint to get power...power only goes out again as the train crosses over that same spot intermittently (usually after a car with roller pickups).

CP Bob: I will check those pliers out. Thank you!

Again, as a rookie, as I have continued to study this hobby there are multiple things I will do differently on my next table. Just part of the fun!

@Piedmont Central RR posted:

As a rookie, as I have continued to study this hobby there are multiple things I will do differently on my next table. Just part of the fun!

Welcome to the tinkerer's club.

Well said.  And by the way, you're now officially hooked for life.

As far as soldering goes, you might want to locate two pairs of vice-grips and temporarily clamp one each to the rail you're soldering.  Put one on each side of the point that you're heating, about 3/4" down the rail from the spot.  They will serve as 'heat sinks' to carry away excess heat from the soldering operation that would normally melt the nearby plastic.

Mike

@Mellow Hudson Mike posted:

Welcome to the tinkerer's club.

Well said.  And by the way, you're now officially hooked for life.

As far as soldering goes, you might want to locate two pairs of vice-grips and temporarily clamp one each to the rail you're soldering.  Put one on each side of the point that you're heating, about 3/4" down the rail from the spot.  They will serve as 'heat sinks' to carry away excess heat from the soldering operation that would normally melt the nearby plastic.

Mike

Excellent advice!

Ray

I've soldered tons of Fastrack on the tabs without ever having any melting issues.  I confess, I haven't soldered on the top side as I never needed to, but I suspect it's quite possible without melting the ties with the correct technique and iron.

Note, if you haven't soldered track before, remember to solder the drops for the outside rails on the OUTSIDE of the rails.  Solder on the inside of the rails will cause the flanges to hit them and cause all sorts of problems.  Don't ask me how I know this, but I learned it a really long time ago.

Thank you, all! Wonderful advice. I ended up just giving a little screeze with needlenose pliers at the middle rail joint in question and we have been running great ever since. Will save the soldering for a later time, but I now feel way more confident knowing I'm not about to ruin the section.