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I've had issues at times with Fastrack switches conveying the power through the switch.  To remedy that, here's a set of things I do to them when I have occasion to open them up. I solder all the points that carry power or are connected to internal switch circuits. Also, for track power, which I find very convenient for command operation, I add a 22uh choke in the power feed from the track for DCS compatibility. This has helped a bunch for my switches.

The green arrows are all the spots I soldered, the red arrow is the 22uh choke that replaced the jumper that comes with the switch. Obviously, if you choose to power these from aux power, this isn't needed. I like track power as a command switch then needs no wiring at all, just pop it into the track layout and you're done!

Fastrack Switch Solder Update

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  • Fastrack Switch Solder Update: Fastrack Switch Reliability Updates
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DCS uses the track as a transmission line for the 3.27mhz carrier.  If you have any circuit that adds a capacitance across the tracks, such as the switch electronics in this case, that can impact the DCS signal.  The 22uh RF choke presents a high impedance to the DCS signal to prevent the internal electronics from attenuating the signal.

Do note that this is only if you use track power for the switch.  If you have a separate aux power supply for the switches, that's not necessary.  Since Fastrack command switches consume so little power, it's just a lot more convenient to use track power, that allows you to install them with absolutely no wiring required.

Thanks, John.  I have already soldered several of my Fastrack switches.  I'll have to purchase a bunch of the chokes since I have quite a few O72 switches.  Not to change the subject but I had one switch with a lantern LED that burned out.  I replaced it, but now it is burned out again.  The last time, some how I managed to solder the small wires to the LED leads, but this time I gave up since I was having a heck a time.   For some reason or other the voltage is too high that supplies it.  I had bought a resistor to install to drop it down to a reasonable voltage for the LED.   I probably need some of those helping hands.

 

Larry

 

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