@Quarter Gauger 48 I am totally blown away by your figures. Holy Smokes.
@HiramO and all - thanks for the great tips. I'll have to use them to repaint my chinese figures.
|
@Quarter Gauger 48 I am totally blown away by your figures. Holy Smokes.
@HiramO and all - thanks for the great tips. I'll have to use them to repaint my chinese figures.
@ScoutingDad posted:@Quarter Gauger 48 I am totally blown away by your figures. Holy Smokes.
@HiramO and all - thanks for the great tips. I'll have to use them to repaint my chinese figures.
Thanks very much'... If I can answer any questions or share any tips I've learned, just shoot me an email. Address is in my profile... Happy to help'..
Where did you buy those train worker figures from your post on 7/31?
I have done a number of 28mm and 1/72 military figures over the past few years. I do use washes, but I use them as paints to shade with. For eye sockets IMO they work better than paints.
@Quarter Gauger 48 posted:I think the key to a great figure/little people paint job really depends on the quality of the figure. The past few years I've been buying "Model U" real scanned humans that are 3D printed. And from "Printle", a shapeways affiliate company. The are very realistic, however, some times the facial details are not 100%. Regardless of how much time you spend trying to get them to look acceptable is fruitless. Here is my latest batch from Model U.
I mount them on cork screws held by model wax. I do undercoat with auto gray or tan camouflage. Just a very light coat. I tried Vallejo primer, but unlike their paints, [which I love] I don't like the results. After a few hours I start painting. Skin tones first, then clothes, hats, shoes etc. It is generally easier to touch up the skin later, rather than the entire figure.
I use a very ultra fine tip marker for eyes and lips. I rarely use a wash and never powders. But I am going to give that a try. A/I will damage the paint as well as other washes,,, Again, like everything else in the hobby we all have our individual approach and techniques to our projects... So bottom line, good figures, good brushes and paint, a steady hand gives good results'.. Main thing is enjoying and having fun bringing your little folks to life'..😁
Ted, great painting skill and choice of figures...I hope to have your patience and skill some day Look forward to seeing the above figures on your layout...
@texgeekboy posted:Where did you buy those train worker figures from your post on 7/31?
Thanks Paul'..... Patience... you can do it....'😁
Take a look at https://www.modelu3d.co.uk/ they offer some excellent modern day train crews. Excellent quality and pricing, and one week shipping or less...
Ted, I am with the others. Your people look great!
Fantastic looking. I only wish I was that good at painting.
Thanks Mark'... Always nice hearing from you'.. All the best'... to you'..
@poconotrain posted:Fantastic looking. I only wish I was that good at painting.
Pocono, no need to be a great painter. Use the simple method of block-painting (i.e. paint the basic colors for the head, hands, clothing, accoutrements, etc.) followed by application of a wash or dip, then an overspray of clear matte. Nine times out of ten the results will be a decent-looking figure suitable for the layout or wargame table. Sculpted detail is the critical thing to look for in figures, but even old Plasticville people can work:
Give it a try sometime...it's not that tough and can actually be a lot of fun.
PD
Access to this requires an OGR Forum Supporting Membership