First crack at this...

@Laker80 posted:

So cut the pins and secure the two track ends together?

No, if you must cut to fit; choose to cut the non-pin end first. Then you don't have to play around with the pin side.  

Pins doBdo makeemake it easierieasier you had no pins, screws can be made to hold them in alignment.  ≤ Real nice "spellwreck" program google has, eh? 

Pins do make it easier, but screws are enough to hold an alignment.

 There is a table of "FT combos  to = (?) X inch " floating around here in some older SCARM posts. Might be worth a hunt.

@Adriatic posted:

No, if you must cut to fit; choose to cut the non-pin end first. Then you don't have to play around with the pin side.  

Pins doBdo makeemake it easierieasier you had no pins, screws can be made to hold them in alignment.  ≤ Real nice "spellwreck" program google has, eh? 

Pins do make it easier, but screws are enough to hold an alignment.

 There is a table of "FT combos  to = (?) X inch " floating around here in some older SCARM posts. Might be worth a hunt.

What would you use to cut the fastrack rail bed? Coping saw? Score it with an exacto knife and then try cutting? I think I have all but one area in my plan figured out to avoid modifying the track. 

If you need to cut the roadbed, a coping saw would probably work.  I used a hobby hand saw like the ones in the links.  They come in handy for all sorts of things.  Mine is X-Acto brand.  This is an advertisement from Michaels, but you can get them lots of places.

 https://www.michaels.com/x-act...aw-set/10223584.html

Here are a couple others that Micro-Mark has for sale.

 https://www.micromark.com/4-in-1-Zona-Saw-Set

 https://www.micromark.com/10-p...-Razor-Saw-Knife-Set

About track pins.  I did this once, and it worked.  I pried the pins lose from the end to be discarded with a flat blade screwdriver.  Then after a light touch with a fine tooth file on the cut end, I put the pins in the appropriate rails and cinched then down with a rather robust pliers.  It worked for me.  Someone else may have a better idea.

That saw looks like it would work better than my coping saw.

I think the hardest part of this build will be sneaking some more switch purchases by the wife...

Almost done with the second section!

That sturdy layout table is shaping up nicely as the first.

@Mark Boyce posted:

That sturdy layout table is shaping up nicely as the first.

yeah, the first one is rock solid. Looking forward to adding some track and giving the layout a little heart and soul. It’s a long process... I’m slowly acquiring switches 

I would cut FasTrack only as a last resort. Probably 99%+ of the time, you can fit things with available pieces. Here's a link to a fitter chart

@Laker80 posted:

 

Yes it is a long process for me too

Does anyone have a good guide or video on how to disconnect and reconnect the wires from a switch? It looks like you would remove them from the track side and use an eyeglass or computer screw driver to reattach them but I don't want to do this without confirming.

I'm looking to remove the wires, drill a hole through the table, fish the wire back through and have them hidden. 

I liked Burkus' design on the first page, I have done many designs with similar features and posted on the forum, but not a 8x10.  Constructed with a 4x8 and 4x6.  I worked with his design and eliminated the reverse curves, and then added a run-around track spanning the yard.

I also added a few industry spurs.  One can do without the run-around track for longer yard spurs if desired.  Delete some industry spurs if it looks too busy.

This alternative has a longer spur in the lower left corner:

With this design, you can think about future expansion off the 4x6, using two O48 turnouts (which are drop-in replacements for one section of O48 curve.   The spurs might be too small for any industry.

You might wonder why I mixed O48 and O36 on the right-hand side of the layout.   I use a tight tolerance of 3/32" in my layouts, this one connects about 1/16".   I could not find a perfect connection with just O36 curves, but the O48 additions changed the geometry so I could find a match.

One could also expand off the bottom left 4x8 board.

I use a lot of trial-and-error (which can be time-consuming) in assembling my layout designs.  AnyRail (free for up to 50 sections of track) is easy for me to move sections around and try different configurations.

Fastrack can be cut to build custom-length sections, but its not fun, and hard to get great results.   So I avoid it in my designs, which means I have to often use lots of small sections to get the right length.  And do the technique mention mixing different diameter curves.

Ken, the reason it looks similar to your designs is cause it was largely inspired by your designs! Glad you like it!

@Laker80 posted:

Does anyone have a good guide or video on how to disconnect and reconnect the wires from a switch? It looks like you would remove them from the track side and use an eyeglass or computer screw driver to reattach them but I don't want to do this without confirming.

I'm looking to remove the wires, drill a hole through the table, fish the wire back through and have them hidden. 

Laker, You are talking about Fastrak switches, I think.  Yes indeed, just use a small screwdriver as you mentioned.  If you don't have the wiring diagram, just write down which color goes on which connector or as my older son-in-law pointed out to me, take a photograph of it before taking it apart.  These young folks teach me new things all the time.  I can be pretty slow.  Make sure none of the strands of a wire come loose and bridge to the next connector when reconnecting.  I only did it once on Fastrak switches, and it was a few years ago.  As long as there is no power on any of the wires or track, you can do that with any device as long as you carefully record before taking it apart.

This variation builds a long passing siding, so you can think about two-train operation:

@Laker80 posted:

Does anyone have a good guide or video on how to disconnect and reconnect the wires from a switch? It looks like you would remove them from the track side and use an eyeglass or computer screw driver to reattach them but I don't want to do this without confirming.

I'm looking to remove the wires, drill a hole through the table, fish the wire back through and have them hidden. 

You can do it either way. Personally, I prefer unscrewing the wire at the controller end, but that's just me. I take the controller apart and unscrew the wires, making sure to write down which color goes where. I then drill a hole through the layout directly under the switch and run the wire through the hole and connect back up to the controller. 

Also, if you need more length for your wire, use 4 conductor telephone cable to extend the wire. In that situation, I do not remove the wire from either the switch or the controller. I simply cut the wire in half and feed the cut end still connected to the switch through the layout hole, so now you have two cut ends under the layout - one from the switch and one from the controller.  I then cut the length of new cable I need to make the two cut ends connect together and twist the colored wires together at both ends using "jelly bean" connectors. 

Ken, what if you just moved the yard passing siding over so that it connected with the top of the 90-crossover loop? Kinda like a reflection of the connection on the other side?

Moving along nicely... if the wife doesn’t kill me in my sleep I’ll start joining everything together tomorrow.

It’s a plan, Laker!

Laker 80:

Fortunately, one can place a lot of track in an "L" layout. The L extension is a perfect location for a yard; the switches provide access to stub tracks for "cars in waiting" that can quickly be called into service; the switching maneuvers are part of the fun of creating various consists -- freight, passenger, or unit trains -- without having to gather cars not at rest on the platform for making-up a train. The longer the stub sidings, the better!

Other OGR FORUM hobbyists have already contributed concepts to your emerging layout; I endorse reversing loops, passing sidings for action accessories, and trackage for two-train operation!

My L-shaped layout (a photo derived from ANYRAIL software is attached) has three switched tracks in the yard; dedicated to Lionel THOMAS series trains. They are equipped with LionChief for use by my two great grandsons. Although my layout is bigger than what you are working with, the underlying fundamentals are somewhat similar.

Consider the process of experimenting with track plans a contribution to your education - and your son. Trial and error worked out pretty well for Thomas Edison and other inventors! I learned that lesson after initially re-inventing my original track plan based on Lionel tubular track with O31 curves and switches to Lionel O42 tubular track and switches. A much better plan! If space allowed, I would have used Lionel O48 FasTrak and switches, but the train room wasn't wide enough for that.

Carry on ...

Mike Mottler     LCCA 12394
mottlerm@gmail.com

@BurkusCircus52 posted:

Ken, what if you just moved the yard passing siding over so that it connected with the top of the 90-crossover loop? Kinda like a reflection of the connection on the other side?

Great catch Burkus!!  Adds 10" to each yard spur.

This next image highlights the track sections wider than O36:  blue/violet is O48, and the green is an O60 turnout with the two 1-3/8" sections with roadbed trimmed that come with the O60 turnout.

If I was building this myself, I would probably do this version, and imagine that the outside perimeter route is a connecting railroad that I can interchange with.

Then, if I decide to expand off either end, I already have one turnout in place, so less work to add just one more turnout.

Everyone likes a tunnel and a river, perhaps this works:

Just for fun, decorating with some structures and trees:

@Ken-Oscale posted:

With this design, you can think about future expansion off the 4x6, using two O48 turnouts (which are drop-in replacements for one section of O48 curve.   The spurs might be too small for any industry.

Ken those layouts are fantastic! I’m going to slowly build towards that set up. I love the action!

So I have the two tables joined and I got a few more switches. Covid has really dented our sales but I’m still thankful I’m able to pick away at it every month. I’m going to run some blue painters tape over the sound board and paint it to match since the cut was pretty sloppy. I’ll start hiding some wires this week. I was going to do that but I just played with it when the kids wanted to and ran it by myself when they were sleeping. 

Got an awesome 40th birthday/Father’s Day gift! My wife snooped my history and saw I kept looking at this Lionchief Hudson (I love colorful locomotives) and I couldn’t be happier! Our whole basement smells like pine scented smoke. I told my wife it’s yankee candles for men. 😆 

I’m very happy with this thing. It’s nicely detailed and it’s got some great sound and smoke effects. The tender came with some bent trucks (axle housting) but they bent back easily and haven’t seemed to be off issue.

Your wife knows what t pick!!  I see two happy children there admiring the trains too!  Our girls were about that age when I was 40.  Today, they and their husbands stopped by, but we didn't run trains.  None of them have much interest other than respecting my interest.

Yankee Candles of Men is a great analogy!!

Looks great but how are you going to reach the far corner when needed?  67.2" is a long reach.

@wild mary posted:

Looks great but how are you going to reach the far corner when needed?  67.2" is a long reach.

There is a little room on the side. Our sprinkler panel is in that corner so I had to make access for that too. 

@Mark Boyce posted:

Your wife knows what t pick!!  I see two happy children there admiring the trains too!  Our girls were about that age when I was 40.  Today, they and their husbands stopped by, but we didn't run trains.  None of them have much interest other than respecting my interest.

Yankee Candles of Men is a great analogy!!

As long as they enjoy it with me for a few years I'll be happy.

Cleaned it up a bit. I taped the edge and painted it last night so I could put it back together this morning before work so the kids could use it.
I also hid some of the wires for the switches. I’m going to get under there and secure the wires with some fasteners. 
I’m kind of stuck with progression until I save up for a few more switches. I think I’ll try my hand at adding some scenery, painting the table different colors, and adding some grades to the track.

Looks great 

What are some nice tower and light accessories? I was looking at yard lights, a rotary beacon, and a tower. Are there any years or models that are better than others or is most of it the same?

I added a couple switches and some menards & MTH buildings. With the siding I can run the RS3 while my son pulls freight with the Hudson. The key is using the speed limiter in the Lionchief app so he doesn’t crash into me before I get off the main 😆

I have a couple more buildings coming and I’m going to try painting or adding streets with the premade roads.

I’d like to add my tube track and make an elevated rail in the near future but I want to get most of my buildings in so I have a general idea of how to run it. I was going to try to integrate it into the main level but I may not have the space so it’ll most likely be separate. I’m thinking just a loop around the town section. I’d like to have it running down a street between some taller buildings.

It’s looking great!  I’m glad your son is having fun with you!

@Mark Boyce

It’s looking great!  I’m glad your son is having fun with you!

It’s fun! We’re making noise and making smoke

I had an awful day at work yesterday. I came home and ran the trains with my kids and had a great night. Good stuff...