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PJB,
I am using WS inclines, but did not use roadbed on top. Reason is I found the WS inclines to be just wide enough to handle O scale track. The roadbed was too wide for the inclines. I seem to remember that WS inclines were listed as "HO" and to use two rows for "O" scale. That scheme would use a lot of real estate, at least for my layout. I have had no issues with the one row and no roadbed.
Bill
My whole layout has the vinyl Flexxbed (originally called VinylBed) glued directly to the 3/4" thick plywood top. My Atlas O solid nickel silver track glued directly to the vinyl roadbed. I use TightBond Wood glue, and ONLY used a very few screws to to hold the vinyl roadbed in place, until the glued dried. I then took all the screws out, and reused them for the next roadbed laying operation. I did the same thing with the Atlas track, i.e. some screws used to hold the glued track in place, until the TightBond glue dried, then all the screws removed.
The vinyl roadbed is very easy to bend into curves, and STAYS PUT, using ONLY glue!
I agree, the flexbed will stay put with just glue.
I simply covered the gaps with masking tape. Gluing ballast after that was no problem for me.
Bill
I'm also thinking of using Flexxbed on my layout. Is it necessary to use Homasote between the plywood and the Flexxbed for sound reduction purposes ?
Mike
I'm also thinking of using Flexxbed on my layout. Is it necessary to use Homasote between the plywood and the Flexxbed for sound reduction purposes ?
Mike
Absolutely NOT!
I d
Typ
And how is it possible to lay down sentences and complete questions.....without seemingly floating over all the hollow spaces?
I used Atlas track on top of cork road bed on top of the WS inclines. This worked out well.
I disagree! That vinyl product is so flexible that, once properly glued down, it is there for ever.
Peter
Put enough of that TightBond Professional glue on, and you can glue a house together!
My whole layout is put together with TightBond; the 1"X4" glued to 1"X4" for the legs (no screws), the 1"X2" glued to 1"X4" for the L Girder cross members (no screws), and the 3/4" thick plywood for the top. The layout is "free standing", i.e. NOT connected to the walls in anyway. If you bump into it someplace, you'll hurt yourself and the layout still doesn't move.
Wow. THAT will get you arrested.... LOL!
Dip hydrocal sheets in water and place on the risers for a smooth, flat surface.