Getting older MTH Locomotives.

I have PS and PS2  and the PS are more trouble to get to operate on the MTH remote.  The PS2 is much better and, although, I don't have any PS3, it appears both PS2 and PS3 are close in functionality. 

I find PS2 a bit more reliable and - depending on the engine - better in sound. Although the last few PS3 diesels I've picked up have been stunning - you'd think your standing next to the real thing.

As long as you stick with the 3V PS/2 boards, they're a pretty safe bet.  I am more circumspect about buying anything with a 5V PS/2 board, those have a much higher probability of failure.

how can you tell the difference between the 3v and 5v boards? Are there markings on the board that can ID the difference?

3V boards have the square charging port, and 5V boards have the round charging port.  Of course, if you know the model number, just look it up on the MTH site and read the manual in the battery service section.  Occasionally, you'll see one that doesn't have a charging port.

Ray,

This and a whole lot more about DCS is all in MTH’s “The DCS Companion 3rd Edition!" This book is available from many fine OGR advertisers and forum sponsors, or as an eBook or a printed book at MTH's web store!

Most of my 30+ locomotives were bought used from eBay, the OGR Forum and local train shows. Most of my locomotives are steam engines. All but one are MTH Rail King locomotives, and most of them have PS2. A few have PS3, and I am down to 2 remaining PS engines. My experiences are:

> I have never received a dud / misrepresented used locomotive;

> My price limit for a used Rail King locomotive is $450;

> Expect that the traction tires and smoke unit wicking on a used locomotive will need replacements. MTH smoke units are fantastic, and easy to maintain. If not equipped with a BCR, expect that the battery will need charging before running the locomotive. Charging a battery by letting a locomotive sit on a powered track takes way too much time. Take the battery out and put it into a conventional charger;

> High time readings on used locomotives are misleading as the clocks are running when the locomotives are sitting on a powered siding;

> No mechanical running gear problems, but a few (less than 6) previously owned PS2 locomotives developed issues with their electronics. Problems have been bad solder joints, broken tether wire, and some some circuit failures;

> Speakers may sound horrible upon arrival of a secondhand locomotive, or might sound horrible after a few hours running;

> The BCR is superior to a battery, but they are expensive. My preference has been to use a rechargeable Nimh as a replacement for the MTH NiCad battery. I also am making my own capacitor arrays to replace 9V batteries;

> The circuit board draw bar connecting the engine and tender of PS3 locomotives is scary / tricky to connect;

> The electronics in PS locomotives are problematic, and difficult to cycle through features. Both of my PS locomotives need to be reset, so they are not running now. I intend to sell them both, a Rail King 2-8-0 and a rail King NH EP5;

> PS2 and PS3 have fantastic features and run excellent with a TIU, a DCS Remote and a Z4000. I rate PS2 slightly better than PS3 because I find PS3 is slightly finicky to operate;

> Lionel make some excellent locomotives which are not available in Rail King. I have often thought of buying a dead Lionel locomotive to upgrade with MTH PS2 electronics. However the high cost of the PS2 and PS3 electronics makes this concept a non-starter;

> More than once I bought a locomotive with a fantasy paint scheme, and later bought a body or another locomotive to swap out the fantasy body;

> Mallets run the best through complex track arrangements with 031 and 042 switches and curves;

> It has been my experience that Rail King locomotives are superior in construction, performance and reliability to comparable lines of other brands. Thus I have liquidated all non-Rail King locomotives but one Lionel TMCC unit.

Fleabay is a roll of the dice.   I have people call me weekly telling about the great buy they got from fleabay but this and that is wrong and it does not run.  Yes, everyone has great stories about the big score.  You do not get the trouble calls if you do not fix trains.  Many people hate me because I will not look at anything they got burned with from that site.  Guys, be careful when buying used.  I wish everyone good luck when buying from unknown sellers.  John could not have said things better.  Look at his comments again.  

I will buy inoperative trains from people if they are declared as such.    I will only buy those from OGR Forum members.   I will buy a high end engine with a 5 volt board if it will have value with a PS32 board.   Buying some of these older 5 volt engines to be  upgraded to PS32 is a good move.

Marty Fitzhenry posted:

I will buy inoperative trains from people if they are declared as such.    I will only buy those from OGR Forum members.   I will buy a high end engine with a 5 volt board if it will have value with a PS32 board.   Buying some of these older 5 volt engines to be  upgraded to PS32 is a good move.

I have a similar approach. Buy assuming it will need replacement electronics, so, as I do my own installs price plus 200 bucks is what I am willing to pay. If it works when I get it then thats a bonus. If not, I am still within my price.

I stick to PS2 or newer, not so much that that I mainly run command but MTH makes improvements on pretty much all of their engines with every rerelease. Better paint, more detail, better electronics, etc.

Pete

We usually don't buy more locomotives, having a stable full.  And they are slowly dying with fading electronics one by one.  Three on the shelf now waiting repairs/upgrades.  Fourth one heading there if I can't get the motor sounds back doing a reload of the software.

Spending all the "new locomotive" money just repairing existing roster.  No money left for new ones.

For these older MTH engines - I evaluate them based on price - and assume I probably have to do a bit of cleanup/triage.

A lot of folks are familiar with the pitfalls of these older locos - but some aren't...(buyer and seller)

Seems like the late 1990s Purple boxes are starting to show up more frequently on eBay - and not bringing much.

My last two Purple box loco purchases were about 100 each...

I think the hoarding effect from the 1990s generation of collectors is starting to hit the market...pushing PW/MPC even further down the value line.

Thanks all great information for those of us that are new to the hobby

Always remember guys/gals,  "You only get what you pay for"  I feel very bad when I see someone het fleabayed.  As always they contact the seller and hear  "It ran good when I sent it"  Another thing to consider is trying to obtain small detail parts that have broken off the boiler.  Not always as easy to get as you think.

My email is listed in my profile and I have no problem helping someone new with a question or two.  I want to state again, I am not a parts dealer.  Those requests should always be directed to someone who does advertise on the forum.

I never considered myself particularly lucky but perhaps all my luck is concentrated on eBay. I have bought thirty plus locos on eBay and not one flea in the bunch. Some have needed minor TLC but no dead boards. If you are having a lot of board failures it might be dirty track and the lack of TVS diodes on your power supplies.   I have bought some used TMCC boards on eBay that needed attention, usually bad Chinese capacitors.  Mechanically about the worst problem I have run into is wore out traction tires. I hate the **** things.  Traction tires keep you in a constant state of cleaning your track, if you want good operation. I much prefer adding weight to locos than rubber tires but once the groove is in the wheel you are stuck with the rubber tires and their leaving deposits on your track. I keep envisioning steel bands that snap into the wheel grooves much like piston rings snap into the grooves in a piston.  J

Where do you live? Are there local shows? Have you tried the WANT TO BUY section of this Forum? Do you go to York (that could easily take care of your annual budget)? So many ways besides the auction site.

Gerry

I stay CLEAR of ANY PS1.

PS2 with 5 volt boards I offer 50% of what the seller ask for them due to the instability of the boards.

PS2 with 3 volt boards are better buys.

PS3 has been a GREAT improvement and I am glad there are PS2/3 board upgrades on the market.

If it was not for MTH, O gauge would be a thing of the past...

Not sure what you are looking for, but I have an MTH Steamer, 3V boards and battery replaced with a BCR listed in the FS section...

Traction tires (MTH) are a good thing.  I run a few locomotives and the only time they get changed is for periodic maintenance.  If you do not like them, replace the wheel.   Good stories exist on fleabay buys but you will never hear those folks talk about the not so good deals.  This is very close to what gamblers talk about.  You will always hear about the big win and never what it cost (losses) to get to the score.   Again, I get the calls and hear many stories each week.   I remember a guy about 10 years ago who purchased a non running Century Club FM set and he paid a fortune for it.   He wanted it running no matter what the cost.   I got him out for short money.  I told him he can buy a running set at York for the money he paid.  His answer was, "what is York"    I do understand why some folks go with fleabay as it is their York.  I wish everyone good luck and all I can say is be heads up when pulling the trigger.   Disregarding my stand on working on those items, you will find guys who will help you.   Be careful in picking someone to work on your trains.