OK I've had it with trying with the grass mat. 4x8 homasote primed. Laid down the adhesive and it was just horrific with bubbles and wrinkles everywhere. I'm thinking now of painting all green, laying the roadbed/track, roads and town; then sprinkling the shrubbery and stuff and trees and hills to make it look more realistic. I just can't get past the wrinkles and bubbles. Any thoughts/advice from others who may have experienced this? Thanks.
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i'd do the green and/or brown paint. if you want a little texture get the woodland scenics ground cover and sprinkle on while still wet.
Use double sided carpet tape. Get it set up perfectly before unrolling. A helper comes in handy for this.
You have to very carefully position the mat and start at one end, laying it down as you work your way across the table. This is especially true if you have sprayed both the table and the mat with adhesive because once it sticks, you're done.
Thanks for the feedback. I was pretty careful and had help. I just couldn't stand the bubbles and wrinkles. I think I'm going to try some green paint, maybe even some various shades and faux it and use the woodland scenics stuff.
If you must use grass paper glue it down with wallpaper paste. Some bubbles will occurs. Large bubbles can be rolled to the edge. Smaller bubbles will disappear once the past dries.
If it was laid down correctly, there shouldn't be any bubbles or wrinkles.
And if the referee checked the footballs, they wouldn't be deflated. LOL sorry I tend to have a bit of a weird sense of humor
Thanks you very much for the feedback!
LOL.
We all make mistakes and run into problems. It's a learning experience. That's just part of the process.
In his OGR article a couple of issues ago, Ken O-scale suggested gluing the mat down with Gorilla Glue just along the edges and put weight on it until dry. I took it this was only so one could use his method of fishing the wiring between the foam and grass mat, but maybe there is more to it. Personally, I have never used a grass mat, but am considering it for a temporary layout until after I get my surgeries out of the way.
oh that is whole 'nother thread... still creating the elevated curve from &*$@...
How to attack an age old problem...
https://ogrforum.com/t...65#39722752218959965
They are made from scratch. The straight sections are easy! But parallel double track curves are tougher.... I am chipping away at it now....
...Personally, I have never used a grass mat, but am considering it for a temporary layout until after I get my surgeries out of the way.
If it's temporary, I would simply staple it down.
...Personally, I have never used a grass mat, but am considering it for a temporary layout until after I get my surgeries out of the way.
If it's temporary, I would simply staple it down.
Dennis,
Excellent idea!
Thank you
It never crossed my mind to glue the grass mat down... I always just secured the edges, and the track is screwed down to the plywood through the mat, so the grass mat can't go anywhere. Makes it easy to lay out smooth without bubbles and such.
That makes perfect sense to me.
Hi,
Well it was an experiment to create a more dense material to limit sound transmission.
I pinned all the corners, laid the track down, then removed the pins and glued the perimeter on with simple wood glue.
I use cork road bed with Gargraves and atlas track. I glue the cork only in the radii with screws as needed.
I will glue scenery, dirt, and ballast on top, the roof felt is very porous which should deaden the sound. No painting required.
It seems to do a great job, but I have to admit I am really not running long trains at full speed around the room to check it out yet.
And if the referee checked the footballs, they wouldn't be deflated. LOL sorry I tend to have a bit of a weird sense of humor
Thanks you very much for the feedback!
Well, that depends...he then returns them to the team. I check the game ball for basketball before a game, but I don't lose control of it after checking. Most home teams try to supply a soft ball.
Oh, back to the grass mat...
Hi,
Well it was an experiment to create a more dense material to limit sound transmission.
I pinned all the corners, laid the track down, then removed the pins and glued the perimeter on with simple wood glue.
I use cork road bed with Gargraves and atlas track. I glue the cork only in the radii with screws as needed.
I will glue scenery, dirt, and ballast on top, the roof felt is very porous which should deaden the sound. No painting required.
It seems to do a great job, but I have to admit I am really not running long trains at full speed around the room to check it out yet.
Thanks for your info. At first I was thinking it was a tar type product. I like the color. I might run over to Home Depot to see what it looks like. I was thinking this might eliminate a step in scenic ground foundation between yard tracks and other places where the tracks come close. BTW, what color ballast are you going to use?
JayPomp
Just curious, what type of glue did you use and how did you apply it? With the mention of air bubbles, it sounds as if you either used too much glue or didn't roll the air out. If you are using spray glue, all you need is a quick misting. If you are using liquid glue, pour the glue until you have a dot about the diameter of a quarter, then spread the glue with a 2" roller until you have a thin layer. After either method, use a rolling pin or other similar tool to roll over the grass matt. This will help force out any air that may be trapped.
I just happened upon a product the other night at HD which might also work. Its called Glue Dots, which dispenses little dots of glue. You could probably use a dozen or less of these to position the grass mat. After your scenery is done, you could then go about gluing the edges down.