GRJ's Original DIY Constant Current PAX Car Lighting Module Files

I would like to mention how well this board works.  To date, I have built and installed 30 of these modules with no failures.  Further, I would emphasize(as recorded in Rod’s user notes) that a simple increase in value of R2(brightness adjustment) to say, 500 up to 1000, will allow for dimming the lighting even more, for those who prefer that effect.  For my taste, 500 was the preferred value.

Rod, thanks for this valuable thread.  And thanks to GRJ for creating the package in the first place.

where can I order the parts n boards specifically   ? sincerely thanks ! Alan

The pcb can be ordered here(in sets of three)from Osh Park:  DIY-GRJ-JWA Passenger car lighting PCB  I don’t have an off shore link for the pcb, but others do.  You will need to set up an account to order, but once on this site that will be straight forward.  I ordered my parts from Digikey searched individually then add them to your cart.  Of course you may select any other distributor of your choice, including off shore sources.

TedW, thanks for the Osh Park link.  

Due to the freely given advice from GRJ, Rod Stewart and others, I decided to go ahead and attempt this PCB build, even though a total novice at electronics.

My question is regarding the Voltage Regulator (LM317TG) - it arrived from Digikey in a foil bag with conspicuous warnings about harm to the component from static electricity. What do you fellow forum members do in this case? Antistatic mats and/or spray? Wear a grounding device? Not wanting to invest a whole lot in antistatic measures, may  I just ignore the warnings and go ahead? Would everything still work?

Many thanks for the help. 

Glad to see you are giving one of these projects a try, hope all goes well and you find it enjoyable.

I don't know about the others, but I have never taken any special precautions. I do just as you suggest, ignore the warnings and go full speed ahead. I have worked on many computers over the years, dabbled with electronics and other stuff and never zapped anything. Well that is  from just handling something anyway. (Improper connections, wrong voltages, etc. are another story...)

However, if you are working on carpet or something that can easily generate static, that could be a bit different. If you often get zapped when you touch something in your work area, then some precautions might be justified. Wrist grounding strap or something like that. 

Thanks RTR12 - what you say is reassuring. My little work space is in the basement, concrete floor. Maybe bare feet on the floor and the occasional touch to the copper water pipe next to the table is plenty.

Bob "O" posted:

Due to the freely given advice from GRJ, Rod Stewart and others, I decided to go ahead and attempt this PCB build, even though a total novice at electronics.

My question is regarding the Voltage Regulator (LM317TG) - it arrived from Digikey in a foil bag with conspicuous warnings about harm to the component from static electricity. What do you fellow forum members do in this case? Antistatic mats and/or spray? Wear a grounding device? Not wanting to invest a whole lot in antistatic measures, may  I just ignore the warnings and go ahead? Would everything still work?

Many thanks for the help. 

Those regulators are practically bulletproof, no worries.  I've used hundreds of them (actually thousands), and I don't do any special handling.  Digikey ships stuff like connectors in similar bags at times, and I'm sure they're not static sensitive!

Thanks, GRJ!

I have to leave my shoes and socks on or my feet get cold on the concrete floor! And we have only Pex for plumbing too, so no pipes worth touching for ground either. As GRJ says above, you should be fine with the LM317s and still be able to keep your feet warm! 

@Rod Stewart posted:

I took the liberty of moving grj's original files for this project over to a new topic just to make them easier to find. The original topic started in late 2016 and is some 7 pages long; these files are found on page 5.

The only thing I have added to this is my user notes in Word format as an attachment. The gerber zip file is also attached below. I want to emphasize that grj is the sole creator of this circuit and these original files! 

 

Can I substitute the item below for C1? Digi-key does not have ECA-1VM471 in stock.

@Tommy44 posted:

Can I substitute ECA-1VHG471 for C1?   Digi-key does not have ECA-1VM471 in stock.

Sure, the ECA-1VHG471 is the same value and has the same lead spacing.

Does anyone have a suggestion for an antistatic mat with wrist ground for for general use?  Pat B.

You don't need it for this project.  Truthfully, I don't use a mat all that often, though there are some jobs I do break it out.

I would like to use the pcb for conventional use with 5v LED light strips. Are there any components that need to be changed?

Nope, it's a constant current design, so it adjusts the voltage to the current required.

Thanks for the information!!

Our club has made and installed over a hundred of the LED controllers for club cars as well as members cars with no issues handling the LM317 during soldering.

The LM317 is a pretty robust part, it's not like you're typical delicate IC.

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

The LM317 is a pretty robust part, it's not like you're typical delicate IC.

Too funny, my initial thought was "when did the Illinois Central become delicate"?

Paul

Digikey cart share

I don't know how long Digikey retains a "shared cart".  Above link should get you to a starting point for the parts list for this project including the original and alternate capacitor (choose 1)- presumably at some point the original capacitor will return to in-stock status and it's a bit less expensive.  The idea is you simply click on above link and it loads your shopping cart for a quantity 1 order.  Edit the quantity for each item.  Who knows if this saves time but I've always thought this was a neat feature from DigiKey.

@stan2004, thanks for the link.  Just getting ready to do another 10 pax cars.

would this board work in an engine? I have a sunset model that I'm installing a DCS upgrade kit.

Thanks for any help

If you want LED's from a PS/3 upgrade kit, just use a 220 ohm resistor in series with the LED, no need for any drivers.

It’s two rail. Would that work?

By the time it gets to the headlight, it's always the same polarity.  Just make sure the PV (purple) goes to the anode of the LED.  The resistor can be in either lead.

ok. That makes sense. Thanks John.

@TedW posted:

The pcb can be ordered here(in sets of three)from Osh Park:  DIY-GRJ-JWA Passenger car lighting PCB  I don’t have an off shore link for the pcb, but others do.  You will need to set up an account to order, but once on this site that will be straight forward.  I ordered my parts from Digikey searched individually then add them to your cart.  Of course you may select any other distributor of your choice, including off shore sources.

Hi, I have made similar boards to these and put in many of my coaches, this looks cleaner than what I have done. My question, when ordering the PCB, you mentioned ordering in sets of three, is that automatically done, say one order @ $3.80 / 3 PCBs? I want to make sure I don't end up with 3 times what I need.

I have never ordered these before, hope I don't sound to stupid.

Ray

@Rayin"S" posted:

Hi, I have made similar boards to these and put in many of my coaches, this looks cleaner than what I have done. My question, when ordering the PCB, you mentioned ordering in sets of three, is that automatically done, say one order @ $3.80 / 3 PCBs? I want to make sure I don't end up with 3 times what I need.

I have never ordered these before, hope I don't sound to stupid.

Ray

When you order boards from OSHPark, they are in quantities of three, that's the way they do business.  It's clear on the website the quantity you are getting.  Right after you drop the ZIP file with the Gerber files in it on the page they calculate the cost and show you this notice.  You can order three, six, nine, etc., they come in groups of three.

Here’s a sample order as an example, GRJ sez choose the 0.8mm thickness for the same money and a thinner board.  As you see, quantity 18 divided by 3 = 6 x $3.80 = $22.80 shipped.  Edit:  There is a narrow version also.  Identical in operation.

@TedW posted:

Here’s a sample order as an example, choose the 2oz copper option for the same money and more current capability.

Actually, given the fact that the whole circuit only handles milliamps, more current capability is a moot point.

That being said, I actually do select the 2oz copper option, but for a different reason.  It's also .8mm thick instead of 1.6mm thick!  The thickness is why I pick it, no need to have the board any bulkier than necessary.

Explanation fixed as noted...

If you don't mind waiting longer, there are a number of Far East PCB places that will do boards very cheaply in quantity, but it usually takes three to four weeks to get them.

Yup, @Rod Stewart has a link to one of them.  I got a few from him to play around with.  He liked that the holes were pre-tinned.  They are thicker though if that matters.

I order the .8mm boards from the off-shore places, it's not an issue to get them in the thinner material.

A question about the 470uF capacitor recommended in GRJ's circuit.

I have been greatly helped by contributors to this thread and thank them for my being able to convert 8 passenger cars to LED's. So far each PCB I have built has worked well. There is some minor flicker at very slow speeds over some of my older switches, but vastly better than the old incandescent bulbs.

I just acquired 2 new passenger cars (Lionel 1927620) that are already equipped with flicker-free LED lighting. I have noted that on track power-up, these cars take several seconds to reach full brightness and on power-off, they decay very slowly, perhaps over 3 full seconds. Is that due to a different capacitor or some other function?

I still have 7 more Polar Express cars to convert and if I can do a simple upgrade on the capacitor, I would do that to get the longer decay time. Of course, it would have to be the same pin spacing to fit GRJ's board and not be too much bigger.

Thanks for all the expertise freely shared on this Forum!

Bob

The amount of storage and the current setting directly affect the hold-up time for the lighting.  The dimmer you run them, the longer they'll last during power interruptions.

Here's a 1,000uf cap that  will drop in and double the capacitance.  It is taller than the 470uf cap, but the same lead spacing and diameter.

Rubycon 35PK1000MEFCT810X20

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

The dimmer you run them, the longer they'll last during power interruptions.

Here's a 1,000uf cap that  will drop in and double the capacitance.  

Thanks GRJ. Now I understand why some of my car lights decay more slowly than others - these are the ones that have a dimmer setting.

I will try the 1000uf cap - thanks for the link.

Bob