Hafner 33' worlds fair issues

if you get a chance to post a picture of your train it would be helpful.  assuming you're talking about a 1110 type locomotive, there is no screw that holds the motor in the frame.  just in front of the right front wheel, there is a circular extrusion on the motor frame that clips into a hole on the frame.  if you really want to remove the motor, you'll see why this screwless mounting system is sufficient for this locomotive.  the motor is an exceedingly tight fit and it takes some time with gentle rocking motions to finally get the motor to drop.  the bad news is that removing it is much easier than trying to reinstall it.

before you do this, what type of bulb are you using?  are you sure it's a 3v bulb?  with the bulb unscrewed, you should be looking at a copper strip that is riveted to the front of the battery holder.  if the thread of the bulb can't reach this strip, you might be able to grab it and stretch it forward.  if you don't see that copper strip, you have a bigger problem.  the upside is that there is no wiring.  other than that copper strip, the rest of the circuit is simply the battery and the metal frame as ground.  if you can check the continuity of that simple circuit, there are very few places things can fail.

can't begin to guess what the track problem is without a video or a more complete description of how it is failing.  i have never had a problem with a Hafner locomotive on any 2-rail tinplate track.

good luck...gary

Well i got the light problem fix after removing the nose of the boiler and the copper tab. What didnt dawn on me was that it should have taken 2 batts not one like the observation car. So after pounding out the 30+ yr old rayovac and running some emery cloth through the tube it lights right up. The loco when i engauged  will pull the tender and cars over off the track on curves. The loco by itself seams to move okay. I tried it on a loop of fastrack on ran with no issues with all the cars. It might be because i cant get the track to lay flat on the floor or the tight radius. Or possibly a weak mainspring

I only see a weak spring making it a weaker/slower train.

What is the weight of a modern battery vs old?

Is the track super elevated? (taller on the outside rail of curves and maybe some straights too.) This leans a loco for more speed without tipping over in curves. Correct assembly should make it sit flat. (might be marked for A to A, B to B. (one piece would have A at one end, B on the other, or some kind of marks to match up anyhow.)

   Try running it the opposite direction, clockwise or counter clockwise can make a difference if I recall right.

Look close the the wheels are all in gauge, and not a hair too wide to seat fully, and still have the ability to wiggly ever so sligbty... mininum.

If it runs well on 3 rail track, then the main problem is your track. Warped, rails slightly bent and not in gauge etc. I would lightly oil the wheels and axles with a thin oil, and the same with the motor making sure no oil gets on the governor.

Steve

i didn't think about it, but Steve has a point.  Hafner track wasn't the most robust and even slightly warped pieces could have a very negative effect on traction.  even loaded with batteries, these aren't very heavy locomotives.  i also might check the car axles to make sure those aren't adding a wobble.

nothing that says you can't remove the center rail from three rail track if you really want to hear that bell.  believe me, though, it doesn't really grow on you.

The track dosent lay perfectly flat on the ties. Ill try fastening the ties down to level it out.