Has anybody on here, even though you're 3-rail guys, ever hand laid your track? I have found that all modern pieces (except for the 1989 Lionel semi-scale B6 switcher re-issue) and all postwar O gauge equipment will operate very comfortably on code 148 rails. Postwr Lionel wheels go through a scale turnout frog with little to no modification whereas your angled wheel modern rolling stock need a bit more modification since the flange sits back further from the outside face of the wheel. I have used bass wood for my cross ties and I spike down my rails. For track which is closest to the viewer, I use tie plates made of either plastic or pressed cardboard. It's a lot of work but when your 18+ pound Allegheny rumbles by on your rails, your layout takes on a different characteristic, it's even more of a part of you. I love building my turnouts and creating easements into my curves. For that annoying third rail, I use code 100 rails which counter sinks below the top of the larger code 148 which is great when taking realistic type photographs. I remember an article in OGR back when it was O scale 2 rail and 3 rail journal from around 1990 or 91. The truer 1/4" scale rails make your realistic/scale locomotives look even more realistic. It is true I cannot run anything prewar on it unless they are the 700E and scale freight cars or the scale B6 switcher.
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Hi,
Interesting topic that I have no experience with but interested in what responses you will get. Would you mind showing a few snapshots of your track(layout)?
Dave
Dave, right now I have no layout as it was disassembled a few years ago. I would go to my parent's home and take measurements on a weekend while I was in graduate school and then go back to my apartment about 100 miles away and build my switches using the measurements I had taken and the O scale rail gauge I have. I built my switches on poster boad so when I took them to insert them in my dad's layout, it was like inserting a typical switch from Atlas or so. I had mentioned that my middle rail was smaller than the outer rails so I built 'ramps' as the rollers had to ride up and over the 'wheel rails'. I would mix my hand laid track out closer to where the viewer could see it and in tunnels or toward to back of the layout, I used Atlas 2-rail and mounted a code 100 rail in the middle of it. I have to say that as smooth as a modern freight car rolls on any of the manufacturered 3-rail track, they rolled so much quieter (and further) on these code 148 sized rails. I tell ya, the 2-railers have nothing on me!!!! It's too much fun and I cannot wait until I get a house where I can build again. Oh, and my switches were the same as number 8 turnouts and number 6 turnouts so they were pretty gradual. The crossties are also stained to look a little different in color like real ties, that's the one thing I didn't like about even the Atlas 2-rail track as the ties are plastic and all the same color. Currently, my tracks are about 1400 miles away from me in storage so I can't get to them right away.
RJM,
I am very interested in hand laying 3 rail track. I made a post about it a few years ago. https://ogrforum.com/...-turnouts-for-3-rail
My question for you is how do you handle the frogs, points, and extra for three rail flanges? My point is sizes of these items?
Chris