@Mark V. Spadaro posted:Richie C. wrote:
”I used beer cans for spacers - just the right height and seemed to make the job go easier.
“
12 or 16 oz.? 😀
I forget, but at least they came out level ! 
@Richie C. posted:I used beer cans for spacers - just the right height and seemed to make the job go easier.
I did that too, but by the time I had emptied enough cans to space the shelves, they came out crooked.
Hi, I know this is an old thread but thought I’d share my Glenn Snyder connecting pin experiences.
I haven’t yet installed anything longer than 5 feet so I haven’t had the need to actually mate two longer sections of shelving with the aid of these pins. But I did have a couple of 1 foot leftover pieces so despite some apprehension i figured, May as well try to mate the two and see how easy/difficult it is.
The first attempt went nowhere. Used screwdriver blades, some thin metal pieces that were laying around, some other methods. Nothing worked. Then went out and bought a center punch. And I will say that while I certainly wouldn’t call it easy, I was able to do it. The great thing about the center punch was that it enabled me to easily position the pin vertically on the work surface (I don’t own a vise right now) and tap straight down into the open end. The hardest part of the whole operation for me was…I had a heck of a time once the punch was wedged down into the pin, trying to extricate the punch! Pulling and pulling with the grip I was using proved to be a challenge. I was afraid I was going to apply too much force and crimp the pin but in the end it came out okay. But the whole thing was definitely a PITA. Is there some easy way to extricate the punch that you’ve employed in the past?
One thing I wanted to ask was….i only hammered into the ends from either side. Was I supposed to also lay it flat horizontally and tap into the seam lengthwise?
Also, this was about as close as I was able to get the two shelf pieces to join. (See pic). Does that look like it’s supposed to?
Another question concerns number/placement of pins. These just provide cosmetic enhancements, right? They dont really provide structural rigidity do they? Could you get away with just using one on the center rail as I did here?
finally like someone else said earlier, if they do manufacture these pins specifically for their own product, why not just make the openings a bit larger from the get-go? Seems like it adds an unnecessary layer of complexity/difficulty.
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IMHO, there is no need to use the shelf pins. The hassle you describe is not worth the effort. First of all, when you have trains on the rails and crossing the rail transitions, most of any mismatch is hidden. Secondly, to get the best match at the edge of the rail facing the public, I slightly adjust the depth of the wall screws that are closest to the rail transitions to get the best alignment.
In 30 years of having many Snyder or predecessor Rail Rax shelving on the walls, no one has ever commented "Ooooo, your shelves are not aligned properly and your trains look silly!"
Mike, You should have asked me! I also used the center punch. I did hundreds and hundreds of pins. Once you get going it's no work at all!
This pic is no where near all the shelves I hung.
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Wow, I want a train room like that! 
So what’s your answer to my pin question(s)? Do you really need more than one? They don’t add to the rigidity of the shelves do they?
Are you supposed to split them horizontally down the center as well from both ends?
Ever try removing these pins once you’ve joined two shelves together?
@Chris Lord posted:Mike, You should have asked me! I also used the center punch. I did hundreds and hundreds of pins. Once you get going it's no work at all!
This pic is no where near all the shelves I hung.
I agree, I’ve done tons of these pins in the past and I’m currently putting up over 400’ of GSD shelving using this method. Once you get the hang they’re fine. If you’re using short sections like you mentioned, I do think joining shelves is necessary. Trying jointing a 6’ and 1’ shelf without pins…. Maybe not needed if you’re joining two 6’ shelves with each shelf in several studs.
Three firm taps of the hammer onto the center punch. Use pliers or vice grips and rotate the joiner until it comes free. A little WD40 on the punch occasionally helps.
@mike.caruso posted:Wow, I want a train room like that!
So what’s your answer to my pin question(s)? Do you really need more than one? They don’t add to the rigidity of the shelves do they?
Are you supposed to split them horizontally down the center as well from both ends?
Ever try removing these pins once you’ve joined two shelves together?
I think you could get away with just 1 (or two.) I went for all 3. I thought since I'm doing all the other work (including drilling a zillion holes into mtymetal studs and using Togglers to mount the shelves) i might as well go all the way. All I did was use the punch at both ends. I have a piece of 2x4 covered in carpet that I used to bang the shelves together. Nice and tight!
Access the Glenn Snyder Display Systems website, Click on installation instructions. May not apply to all problems, but is a very good over-all tutorial. Have Fun, Mike CT. 
I used the pins, typically I used two on the outside rails.
