The four side 90 degree curved side grab irons and the four end 90 degree safety railings are molded into the caboose body. I tried highlighting these safety appliance with yellow PollyScale acrylic paint, I first tried a pointed synthetic bristle hobby brush the paint bleed to the carbody even with dry brushing, then I tried a small white microbrush same result, I even tried some 1/32 inch yellow stripe water slide decals that failed on the curved grab iron. Appreciate any suggestions thanks in advance.
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Wow, that's a tough one. I have 2 - one was a donor caboose to this one. You can see that I didn't even try to paint the handrails. I suppose you could mask off around them and try painting with a micro-brush. Or bite the bullet and sand off the molded in handrails and apply wire ones.
Please keep us informed as to what you end up doing.
Best,
George
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Try a round toothpick with paint on the end. I use them all the time to paint fine details like grab irons. Make sure you have plenty of light and magnification available if needed.
I also pluck one of my forearm hairs to use to paint iris/pupil on O scale people, but that’s probably a little too fine for grab irons.
Steady hands!
Maybe try a foam disposable brush. Lightly tap the side on the raised grabs. Several light coats. JohnA
@John Ochab posted:The four side 90 degree curved side grab irons and the four end 90 degree safety railings are molded into the caboose body. I tried highlighting these safety appliance with yellow PollyScale acrylic paint, I first tried a pointed synthetic bristle hobby brush the paint bleed to the carbody even with dry brushing, then I tried a small white microbrush same result, I even tried some 1/32 inch yellow stripe water slide decals that failed on the curved grab iron. Appreciate any suggestions thanks in advance.
Use a #0 brush found at good hobby stores or Michaels or Hobby Lobby.
I’ve had success using a micro brush. Get some paint on the brush and remove the the excess. Use the edge of the brush rather than the tip and just glide it over the grab. When using the tip of the brush. Your tendency is to push downward and one little slip and it’s on the carbody.
I’ve painted quite a few molded-in grabs and I have had good success using Dave C’s method…use the side (or edge) of the brush rather than the tip. Sideways strokes rather than downward.
Dave C,
Which micro brush did you use and what acrylic paint did you use? I tried the white micro brush(very small bristle head) and Pollyscale acrylic paint from the bottle. I still had bleeding down the sides of the molded grab using the side of this micro brush. I had some limited success with white craft paint, result were still not good, jagged painted edge. My logic in trying the craft paint is that the craft paint is not a viscous as the Pollyscale paint there it should less tendency tot run down the molded sides of side grabs. Also did you have any success to detaining the end hand railing?. Thanks in advance for your response.
Has anyone tries automotive pin striping, is this material as rigid as a water slide stripe decal or can be contoured to a small radii, 3/16 inch up to 3/4 inch? Never used pin striping on an automobile just an idea.
Similar to this. I can’t remember the brand.
I’ve had good luck with Tamiya acrylic. It seems to cover well and doesn’t seem to run all over the place.
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@John Ochab posted:The four side 90 degree curved side grab irons and the four end 90 degree safety railings are molded into the caboose body. I tried highlighting these safety appliance with yellow PollyScale acrylic paint, I first tried a pointed synthetic bristle hobby brush the paint bleed to the carbody even with dry brushing, then I tried a small white microbrush same result, I even tried some 1/32 inch yellow stripe water slide decals that failed on the curved grab iron. Appreciate any suggestions thanks in advance.
Yellow Polly Scale is problematic - coverage is not all that good; maybe if you can find a bottle of really old Floquil that still has the cadmium yellow in it you'll get decent coverage.
Removing the molded on bits and replacing them with wire will not only look better, but also get you a clean surface to paint with our modern louse yellow paints.
Failing those options, I use either a 3/0 or 5/0 brush for fine details. Success with that is dependent on just how steady your hands are when painting.
Some thicker paint might help from running and finding all of the creases.
I did this molded built in grab iron on the front of the boiler. I used regular white Testors model paint. I find the Testors is a little thicker than others.
You can see my one little mistake area.
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Could try a paint pen. Get a fine tip one. I am NOT endorsing the link, just using it as an example of the recommended product. Takes a while to get the feel for these pens, if you haven't used before.
https://www.plazaart.com/sharp...er-extra-fine-yellow
BTW the "high-end lighted version of Weaver Caboose with Interiors" came with these highlighted in Yellow.
I had two small bottles of Tamiya yellow acrylic paint and tried the Dave C method, with much patience using a magnifying lamp I did the first Weaver Northeastern Caboose and discovered Dave's technique firsthand. The Tamiya paint is much less viscous with more pigmentation than the Pollyscale Paint and coupling this with almost a dry white brush side technique the four curved side end handrails were painted with the initial application. I allowed this paint to dry and applied a second application using the same technique. Satisfied with the results I painted the four end railings using this same method. As with any procedure once you repeat it several times you become more proficient in using it. I want to thank Dave C and all other responders to this posting for assistance in this project.