How do you uncouple between cars?

I use an uncoupling or operating track.  I don't like lifting cars.

I'm with Eric, however most Lionel and Mth couplers have a small lever on the coupler shank that you can push down with your finger to manually uncouple them, no lifting needed. 

Thanks for the tips - I like the ones with the lever and are easy to use manually.  For those who don't use uncoupling tracks, how do you deal with the thumbtack style uncouplers and [worse yet] the ones with the tab underneath by the bolster?

The only cars I've seen that fit the latter description are aluminum (or similar) passenger cars.

 

Since the "armature" in these are a sliding bar inside the coupler shank that pulls back to release the coupler, it's theoretically possible to glue a peg to the bar that would allow you to slip your finger under the shank and release the coupler by flicking the peg toward the truck bolster.

 

But I suspect that few people do much switching with passenger trains once assembled, so there's not enough inconvenience to warrant a change. Thumbtack couplers, as far as I know, all have release tabs next to the coupler shank.

 

---PCJ

I use an uncoupling tool made from a coffee stirrer with Kadees and three-rail couplers. You just taper the end so it can slip between Kadees and give it a small twist, or push the three-rail uncoupler tabs with the end. Problem is I keep loosing the things. If I were smart (so much for that) I'd get one of those pocket screwdrivers and use that instead.

Well, being an American Flyer operator, I try to rely on strategically placed uncouplers, manual or remote. But I also have a piece of .040" styrene about 7/8" x 6" to uncouple anywhere else by slipping it under the couplers to lift the pins.  I know this thread is geared toward Lionel or other 3-rail, so why not get some thin magnetic strip as in a refrigerator magnet and glue it to a similar strip of styrene?

Watching the few HO operating layouts that I've seen, the operators use a slender stick to do the uncoupling.  The next time you go out for Chinese, why not save the chop sticks.  If they are too thick, you can always whittle them down.

What'cha think?

I think that's a dandy idea!

Never forget the KISS principle!

I use remote uncoupler on my ad track, right after turnout (before really since switcher is going opposite direction as train) that goes to my yard lead. That way I can break anywhere and leave rest of consist on ad track. I usually grab caboose first and send the crew to service yard. Also put one right before any spur turnout and on the end of sidings right before it rejoins mainline.

Use an "orange stick" that are made for manicuring. You can buy them at a drug store and they are pointed on one end and tapered on the other like a screwdriver.  Being made of wood they are safer to use. They are also narrow.

.....

Dennis

I have a telescoping pointer that I purchased at an office supply store.  I place it directly on TOP of the thumbtack and press down.  The telescoping capability allows me to uncouple cars that are too far away to reach otherwise.  I have found that Atlas cars, with the air hoses, are difficult to uncouple because the tab is hidden by the hose.  The pointer allows me to go directly to the thumbtack.

 

Tom

 

The problem with both Kadees and the old style couplers is that I really can't see between the cars good enough to get the tool to work the first time.

 

If anyone recalls, I posted a few years ago about attaching a "Finger Light" to my uncoupling tool to shine some light down onto the couplers.  They worked, but the batteries gave out quickly and were more expensive than the whole thing.

 

What we need is an uncoupling tool with a LED circuit (with battery) attached.  Maybe Evans Designs can do the honors!!!

I use an uncoupling track section if convenient, if not I use the old reliable method, the Jolly Green Giant method. You gently grab the car from the top at the end and lift. When the coupler clears move the cars back far enought to clear the coupler and then set the car back down making sure the wheels are on the track.

 

Al

Me too. Sometimes it takes a few minutes to get up, when finally my back is giving in. Then I search the kitchen drawer for tooth picks, or the coffee mug with pencils and the watch makers screw driver which is always gone when I need it very badly.

 

Kieffer

I find that I can usually get my pinkie under the coupler shank and onto the sliding bar on these. Move the bar a little toward the center of the car, and the coupler opens. Older Standard O cabooses have couplers similar to the passenger cars; they are tougher because the coupler shank is shorter, but I can usually still get them.

When designing my layout, I strategically placed a dozen uncoupling sections at points it made sense to have them for building trains, sidings etc. All these are controlled through AIU ACC relays. Each has a name and all are grouped together on the DCS remote. I uncouple all remotely. Run train slow enough, trigger on the right ACC track and as soon as it uncouples, trigger track back off.

When I run conventional (using remote) it works just as well.