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Like Trainroomgary, I used K-Line Shadow Rail tubular track when I cleared my layout and started over with a new track plan in 2006. All eight of my switches are 0-72 K-Line as well. I originally bought a spare right and left. After the K-Line demise, I bought another spare pair when Lionel reproduced them. Eight years later, all eight original switches are working perfectly.

 

I often enjoy running my Third Rail brass 4-8-2 SP Mountain with its sound off to enjoy its smooth and silent running on the K-Line tubular. I have always attributed that to its sprung drivers.   

09-DSC_0007_05

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  • 09-DSC_0007_05: Those are my grandsons in the store windows (not the TAZ)

I will never give up my tubular track!

 

I must confess, I have tried Fastrack one time and boy what a disaster! It don't take to any attempt at free lancing a layout and is super expensive, also it don't conduct electricity any better then tubular if it works that good.

I tried a 3 foot by 9 foot layout in an upstairs bedroom that I have, and had to use two power hook-ups, one at the transformer and one on the other side of the loop.

 

The only reason I tried it was because I traded somebody some Lionel freight cars in exchange for the Fastrack, and the Fastrack was traded off for an MTH engine at a train show. I had to dump it somewhere other then the garbage can.

 

My question about Fastrack is; what is all the Hoopla about?

To me it is a super bad track system!!!

 

Lee Fritz

Generally, if I had to do it all over again and start at square one, I would not go with any track system that has an integral ballasted base. Why? Well, you are stuck with how the ballast looks as well as the tie spacing in addition to proprietary connecting fasteners...Not every track is a well perfectly ballasted example of main line.

Another minor gripe is the perfect knife edge of the ballast strikes me as "goofy"

I used tubular track for some sidings and a trolley line and I could easily bury under a brick street, make it look overgrown with weeds etc...easily. 

So next time around it is Gargraves for me..I bought Realtrax when it was solid rail etc..before the Lionel product followed..so I used what I had from a previous layout.

I run tinplate at times, and the newer products just look goofy under the wheels of tinplate..like a microwave in a log cabin..sort of out of place. Oh well..live and learn..my budget conscious self got the best of me.

 

Last edited by electroliner
Shadow Rail is the Cadillac of tubular track. I considered going with it on my layout, but I already had so much regular tubular track that I stuck with that. If I were starting from scratch and didn't already have a large inventory, I would probably use Shadow Rail.
 
Originally Posted by OddIsHeRU:

Like Trainroomgary, I used K-Line Shadow Rail tubular track when I cleared my layout and started over with a new track plan in 2006. All eight of my switches are 0-72 K-Line as well. I originally bought a spare right and left. After the K-Line demise, I bought another spare pair when Lionel reproduced them. Eight years later, all eight original switches are working perfectly.

 

I often enjoy running my Third Rail brass 4-8-2 SP Mountain with its sound off to enjoy its smooth and silent running on the K-Line tubular. I have always attributed that to its sprung drivers.   

09-DSC_0007_05

 

O-31 tube!  Plus that 3rd party company company which makes the rubber roadbed which is like the 1950's.  Gives the layout the blackish ballast SP used in the Houston area.  But the 40" straight sections of O-31 are great!

But MARX switches had a great idea.  The switch machines are below the rail level, so one could run longer equipment.  Marx extra tie O-27 profile track was O-34!  And with MARX one can run locos with powered wheels which are close to the edge of the wheel.

Curt - I am also looking to change out 027 for 042 or larger but just can't bring myself to dismantle what I have got...so "sitting on the fence" and just running trains at present. The other reason is the cost - you guys would weep if you saw some of the prices over here in England for track and shipping costs from USA can also be scary and I will  say nothing about the $ rate at present !

I think your layout is great and just shows what you can do with 027.

 

MIKE

I am just starting a 36' x 24' all-tubular layout.  Among other highlights are 34 Prewar 711 O72 switches, 11 O22s, 34 UCS sections, 229 O72 curve sections, and 5000 moondog rubber ties.

The look and feel is intended to be that of a very fine postwar layout ... photos of the 1940s-early 1950s NYC showroom layout are my guiding star ... along with some of the fine examples shown in this thread.

I finally began the benchwork just last night.

Steven J. Serenska

 

I like tubular for the simple reason that it's so easy to repair.  I can make insulated sections with my eyes closed.  I can solder to it easily.  It's rugged.  It's cost effective.  If I want to add wood ties to it, it is a no brainer to do.  And believe me, I sometimes wonder if my brain is functioning.....LOL  

O22 switches are almost bullet proof and simple to maintain.  I can buy a bunch of them in need of repair cheaply and cannibalize some to make the rest work well.  

 

I am trying to use some O gauge & 027 tubular track with Gargraves track and Ross Custom switches. Gargraves track works well but their switches are not that good after 7 to 8 years of use. Ross Custom switches are my choice for new switches any more. To use Gargraves or Ross track with Lionel, MTH, RMT or Atlas you need adapter pins. With Atlas track you need different adapter pins then with other brands of O gauge track as Atlas track takes a special adapter pin for use with Gargraves or Ross track.

Lee Fritz

Last edited by phillyreading

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OGR Publishing, Inc., 1310 Eastside Centre Ct, Ste 6, Mountain Home, AR 72653
800-980-OGRR (6477)
www.ogaugerr.com

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