I'll tell you how I do it.
For the remote by itself, just connect it to a 12 volt power supply with current limiting. I connect the common and one leg to the supply, one bulb should light. I hold the switch to that position, it should short out the bulb and turn it off. Repeat for the other position.
If that works, the remote switch is good.
For the switch, I connect rail power and remove the constant voltage plug. Short one of the outside terminals to the middle terminal, the switch should change. If not, it's already in that position, try the other combination. Repeat for the opposite position.
Next, I short the two outside rails together to test the non-derailing feature for each entry.
Next, I try to manually move the switch track when it's locked into each position, it should be latched by the bail. If not, that requires adjustment.
Finally, I connect a control locally (I have one with clips on it for quick connects) and run the switch back and forth a bunch of times, observing the switch movement. If I see any hesitation or incomplete throw, it's time to open it up and lube and adjust.