I'm trying to restore Flying Yankee 617 car with vestibule. In order to do that I have to strip completely old chrome layer. Can you recommend any "at home" working method for that?
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If it is real chrome plating you would have to reverse the plating process to get it off. A plating shop could do it but would probably cheaper to look for another one.
Chirss, if you are removing the chrome to paint the cars, you may not need to strip them. I have had luck just lightly sandblasting the chrome to give the paint some tooth. Try not to blast thru the chrome layer as it will flake and show in the paint finish. Any wheel shop or metal shop and many auto shops have blast cabinets and they will blast a few items for 20 bucks.
Chris S.
You can find a few different methods on this page. I've used the electrolysis method before, but it isn't for everyone.
I thought honestly to strip remaining chrome and nickel plate whole car, then polish it.
I nickel plated at home smaller parts and was quite successful with it.
Thanks to a tip from Eddie g, I successfully repaired two PW LIONEL street lamps; still have a third to repair--suggestions welcome.
Sprayed the LIONEL rock piers I was gifted by a forum member with Scalecoat I dull glaze to knock down the shiny finish--it's an improvement and I'm not aiming for scenic realism.
On the downside, my plans for lighting some Plasticville buildings with 3528 LEDs on a reel using an AC to DC stepdown buck booster were frustrated (as in the board I bought didn't light the LED's when wired between my LIONEL accessory transformer and a test strip of LEDs.
Chirss, if you are going to re-plate, do not use my method of sandblasting. It will pit the surface and make it really hard to get a smooth polished nickel look.
Chris S.
If it were mine (have one) I would find another on the market somewhere. Easier.
Ok, this is what worked for me to strip chrome from steel Lionel element.
I took this method from automotive forum. It may not work for stripping chrome from other metals. I have no knowledge about it. Whatever you read here - experiment at your own risk. Perform any test outdoor, read direction written on the chemicals used, use rubber glows, wear mask, protect your eyes, wear protective clothes...etc. I don't take responsibility for your mistakes.
What is needed:
- Muriatic acid 30% (in Home Depot for $11 for 2 gallons)
- plastic container approx half gallon.
- approx 3 ft of bare copper wire (16 gauge or thicker)
- DC power supply or battery capable for 5A current at minimum 2V for few minutes.
- item you want to strip chrome off ( in my case part of 617 vestibule)
Cut 2 pieces of the copper wire: longer and shorter one.
Make out of the longer one a ring and put in on the bottom of the container.
Shorter firmly connect (or wrap) to chrome stripped element (in my case it was sacrificial Lionel 617 vestibule part)
Put chromed element into center of container and copper ring. It can NOT touch the ring!
Connect (+) POSITIVE lead to the wire on chromed element.
Connect (-) NEGATIVE lead to the copper ring.
One more remainder: do everything outdoor, muriatic acid stinks terrible and is toxic!
Pour carefully muriatic acid into container so it cover de-chromed element.
Once again ensure, that chromed element doesn't touch the copper ring.
Turn on DC power supply. It will start drain a high current. Approx 4A (in my case).
Voltage will be rather low between 2V to 4V (see picture below).
You should see plenty of small bubbles coming from the copper ring.
Chrome gloss should disappear within a minute or less and steel element should turn dark gray color.
When all done turn off the power supply, flash the stripped element in the water.
Dispose muriatic acid according to instruction on the bottle.
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