Hudson Premier Smoke stopped working

Also, I am getting 8.5 ohms if I put multimeter to those two solder points, infinity/no change if putting it to each resistor.

i think because they are soldered underneath in parallel.

so I think the resistors are good.

Well, if you're truly getting infinity between any  two resistor connections on the smoke unit, something is seriously wrong!

Well, I re-soldered the two wires connecting the smoke unit.  I removed impeller, checked it, lubed the pin underneath, then put back on and it moved freely both ways.  Cleaned whatever I could to the wick, repositioned it in the chamber like a pillow, left the opening for the fan unobstructed.

Reassembled everything and the smoke is similar to before I started.  I get a little smoke just out of the top, but no chuffing.  Barely any smoke at all, even with MAX smoke on the DCS.

you can test the smoke motor try a 2 vdc voltage source if motor does not start you need a new motor! I have them in stock and wick also! make sure you unplug connect to board, so you don't damage the electronics on the board!

Alan

I don’t have a 2 vdc source.

I guess a 1.5 v AA battery would not work?

Would have to find the leads to disconnect from board.  This might be past my comfort zone.

@SteveG posted:

I don’t have a 2 vdc source.

I guess a 1.5 v AA battery would not work?

Would have to find the leads to disconnect from board.  This might be past my comfort zone.

There was a 2 pin plug to the fan (green and grey) and another to the heater (brown and purple) to remove the smoke unit in the first place.

#1 ensure the wires did not break off the fan motor solder joints. This is one of those more fragile areas of the engine and not much to solder to, coupled with thin wires that can break right at the joint most times.

#2 I test typically with a known half dead 9V battery. I do not advocate testing with a good new 9V battery as this can quickly damage the motor with the higher voltage, but a near dead 9V that has maybe 4-5V and relatively high internal impedance I keep handy works and does not push the motor too hard. I simply unplug the connector, and touch battery to the fan motor solder joint terminals.

Again, do not use a fresh 9V, alternatively 2 1.5V batteries in series is a good test.

A 1.5V battery should spin any properly working smoke fan motor.

In that locomotive, unplugging the 10-pin connector from the frame, one lead of the smoke motor comes directly through the 10-pin tether, so you're isolated for your battery test.

I will try suggestions tomorrow or Friday.

thanks for all the replies!

So I disconnected the 2 pin white connector for the fan and 2 pin red connector for the heater.

do i need to disconnect the 10 pin connector, which I think is mounted on a metal plate just above the middle wheel, or is that only to make it easier to work with?

what do I connect the 1.5v battery to?

does polarity matter?  Am I looking for the impeller to spin?

If you disconnect the 2-pin connector for the fan, you don't have to disconnect anything else unless you want to.  You connect the battery to the two pins on the motor, and polarity doesn't matter, we're just looking for it to spin quietly.

I used one AA battery and took two wires from it to the two solder points on the fan.  Impeller did not move (it was a little difficult to hold the wires to the solder joints and look at impeller at the same time).

Did not hear anything either.  Did same with  two AA batteries in series.  Nothing.

Before I did these tests I made sure I got a proper reading of the two wires so I knew they were contacting the + and - of the battery (batteries).

So impeller/fan = motor.  It must be a bad smoke motor, right?

If 3V didn't move it, it's definitely a bad motor or the impeller is hitting the fan chamber.  Time to take the smoke unit apart and find out what's happening.

Alan did a great job putting in a new smoke fan, wick and wires as the original were brittle.

works great!

the video is at the DCS medium smoke level.