I hate to say this but ---

I dont understand what the switches have to do with the power to the siding. Use a DP switch. One  contact set throws the turnouts and the other powers the train.

Dale H

okay 1st are you running command or conventional? is the siding powered from the same leads basically as the main? Why asking going conventional here in thinking is your getting onto the switch and giving the other engine power as your giving power from the siding to the main ( this is why I like command ) I don't use blocks so I can park a train anywhere and bring another out. 

Now if your using Command I'm completely stump but a idea if you are conventional pick a area that your going to stop the other train and make it a block so you can kill power to that area completely so when the other comes out its the only one getting power and for it to stall I would think it has to be shorting some how also.

I love gargraves also but prefer Ross switches there expensive and I can do like one at a time but there worth the difference. I have 3 right now but still need to get switch machines for them. But all in time.

Do you have ground wires coming from both outside rails?

It looks like the use of fiber pins might be the problem. Without knowing exactly which switches are involved, it's possible that he has actually insulated some legs of the switches inadvertently, depending on whether the switches have center rail continuity through them or not.

I run conventional.

I have a z4000 I have one ground and common going from the powered siding to the rightside.And ground and common going to the letf side.I want to give each train its own throttle.

I had that problem wiring switches

The best tool I brought was a test light from a auto parts store. It has a clip on on end and a probe on the other. I used it all the time when I have a power problem. I used to find out when I didn't have power on the other side of the switch which taught me power the outside (ground rails).

I have a single toggle switch.That switchs from the mainline flib it the powered siding come on.Or flib the switch the transformer left trottle.Flib the switch the right side trottle.

Now that sounds like an idea I might give that a shot.What type of prob you get?Because that might be the way to go.

Well fellow its geting pretty late here.So I am gonna call it a night.But feel free to keep posting if you want.I will read every ones replys.And as always I am very greatful to you guys.

 Sea Board, any Automobile probe will work. If it only has a 12v bulb, it may burn out a little soon, but just move to an 18volt bulb for that same socket if/when, it happens.

 You can make one out of a bulb socket & loose wire. Alligator clips, clipped on jewlers screwdrivers for temporary probes

.

 Originally posted by seaboardstrek:

"I have a z4000 I have one ground and common going from the powered siding to the right side. And ground and common going to the left side. I want to give each train its own throttle."

Unless things have changed, GarGraves has no connection binding the outside rails like tubular, FT, & others do. You must run wire to each side. If you haven't done this, that may be part of it.

Are you using GG turnouts now? I don't think they are wired for auto-derail the same. In fact the power from leg to leg may not be continuous anywhere.  

We need to know exactly what you have where.

 You need 3 fully center rail isolated, & individually switched center rail blocks to do this without using careful thought of fwd-n-rev cycles.

If you add another throttle, I would add it to #2 main b.

#1) main a- empty. #2) main b- occupied, parked #3 siding, occupied, parked.

Right now, as train B leaves the siding, the power is going up one roller leg, and down the other giving the parked train (A) power.

 By dividing it into three blocks, & using a switch you can....

 Shut off the A train on main b by throttle

Turn on the siding to variable A position abd use throttle A, train B leaves the siding onto main a.

Shut off main a by throttle.

Move switch to variable B for the siding power.

Turn on main b by throttle, get train A onto the siding, shut siding switch off.

Turn main a back on, main b back on & run train B. 

 Hope this helps. Its the free SCARM program, took less than 1 hour.

If you want this to be an automated stop, wait & go. It gets a little more complicated with adding detection, and relays (rails, ir, micr switch, etc).

Not having any portion of a full train over an isolation point, is important. As well as multiple pickups on passenger cars. They cause bridging in certain transformer combos/variables for "too long". Despite phasing you still need to know how each transformer is set up to guarantee things work well.

 Every layout is different if even one thing is not know, it can foul things.

  Its one of the many reasons people ask you for the same info each time you post.

Its all a mystery till you list exactly what your doing this time. Including your isolation.

  List All of it, each time, like a car guy spews out cam specs, or a computer geek spits out Kb.

 Better answers will come faster with it.

Hi seaboard streak,

You need a separate controller switch for the switch track. It needs to be a momentary switch with the DZ-1000 motor that Gargraves supplies. Any reason you didn't use the button board that was included with the switch track?

Also, Gargraves switches do come wired for continuous power. Here is their FAQ and the link to wire it.:

Why does my engine stop when traveling through my GarGraves switch?

GarGraves switches are not wired through for continuous power through the center rail. The user will need to provide track power to each end of the switch (three places). This can be done by adding jumper wires to the center rails of the track leading into the switch. A drawing (http://www.gargraves.com/files...0Jumper%20Wiring.bmp of this is available on the diagrams and instructions page of the website