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Hello all, I just got some india ink for the first time and need some help. First, what do you you mix it with and what percentages do you use? Secondly, how many applications per item are used? Third, is it good for all materials ie. plastic, wood etc? I thank all of you in advance for your help.

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I have always used the George Sellios method, two teaspoons in a pint of isopropyl alcohol (the easily found 70% version works fine). I slightly wipe off the brush before application to better control the amount. Best to use vertical strokes which is more realistic. I've also sprayed it on
for a very natural look as well but it's less controllable that way. it just goes where it wants to, like rain. I've also used one teaspoon vs. two in case I wanted a lighter application. I've used it on hydrocal structures (e.g. downtown deco kits) very effectively as well as wood buildings. I have found it works pretty well on resin too (I don't build much with styrene). if you want that old, other side if the tracks look, A &I will give it to you. I'd start easy and lighter to make sure you like the effect. you can always add more.

Jerrman

I used it numerous times on painted styrene with very good results.

 

I've never measured since I never need a full bottle of alcohol's worth.  A little of the mixture goes a long way.  I use plastic film canansters.  I fill it with alcohol and add a few drops of ink.  Stir.  Try it.  Too "alcoholy"???  Add another drop.  Try again til good.  Do decide right away that it's not dark enough though because:

 

As many have suggested above, MULTIPLE applications is better than one heavy, dark application (unless it lands up giving the result that you want).

 

- walt

The value of ink wash is unquestionable in model building. I use this stuff and make several bottles using a variety of artists ink colors usually available at art supply shops. Different woods seem to take on a different appearance...and that's further affected buy the strength of the mixture and quantity of applications, I wouldn't be without thus stuff.

 

In the photo of a work scow tied up to the wharf note the example of several shades.

 

Bob

Love PT Project [228)

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  • Love PT Project (228)

Interesting discussion.  There is a lot to be said about a seemingly simple technique.

 

Here are a couple of more tricks:

 

1) One advantage of I/A is that its low viscosity lets it flow readily.  Let gravity take its course and you will get much more realistic rust runs and rain stains than you could ever paint.

 

2) If you want a really old look (especially on floors), rub in some brown or red chalk after the I/A dries:

 

ink 5

ink 6

ink 4

 

 


3) Use scored sheets of balsa instead of individual boards.  Add color variation to individual "boards" using art markers before staining:

 

ink 1

 

ink 2

ink 3

 

 

ink 7

 

 

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